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Champagne: The 2026 Spring Preview

The 2018 La Grande Dame is just as impressive as it was last year. The focus on northern and northeastern sites in Verzy and Verzenay yields a Grande Dame that impresses with notable tension and cut. Lemon peel, white flowers, chalk, mint and slate race across the palate. There’s gorgeous mineral-drenched drive here. Impeccable.

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2015 La Grande Dame is superb. Bright and vibrant in the glass, it impresses with its energy and focus. The 2015 packs a lot of intensity in its medium-bodied frame. Tasted after the 2012, the 2015 has a bit less body in the mid-palate but more explosive energy leading into the finish. Pear, white…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2015 La Grande Dame, in magnum, is terrific. It offers a bit more mid-palate presence than the wine from bottle. Citrus confit, orchard fruit, white flowers and spice are beautifully amplified by the big bottle. Brisk acids pull it all together on the vibrant finish. In large format, the 2015 Grande Dame is seriously…

The Many Different Chiles of Chile (Mar 2020)

Don Melchor 2017 contains 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Franc, both from Maipo Alto. This earlier harvest resulted in precise, intense doses of cassis, raspberry and blackberry jam sprinkled with spices and country herbs. A young wine, the tannic structure bodes well for the future even with the moderate freshness.

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Good red-ruby. Currant, red plum, wild strawberry, tobacco and tar on the nose, plus a faint gamey quality. Juicy and penetrating, but quite closed today. Very persistent on the finish, but the tannins are a bit tough. Conveys an impression of rather vigorous extraction.

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 1975 Gruaud Larose has a dusty attic and fungal bouquet that is lacking the fruit concentration of the 1966. Touches of prune and brown sugar indicate its maturity; this example is a bit ragged around the edges. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins, perhaps a little hollow with drying tannins, and a touch…