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1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Excellent deep, saturated color. Sexy aromas of black cherry, cassis, and toasty, smoky oak. Wonderful sweetness and texture, with terrific perfume. More pliable than the ’95 Las Cases. Tannins are extremely well integrated for a cabernet-based ’94. I don’t find the austerity that Delon cites.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Montrose has a wonderful bouquet that has opened up since I last tasted it just prior to the pandemic. Its gorgeous pure blackberry, boysenberry, menthol and pencil lead bouquet is clearly less rustic than some of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied, quite powerful and intense with a slightly medicinal entry, a minty…

A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 2006 Léoville Barton has an open and sapid nose with a little more delineation than the ’06 Langoa. A conspicuous marine scent develops with aeration. The palate is smooth on the entry with fine acidity, quite intense for the vintage with liquorice-laced black fruit and earthy notes. Like the Langoa, the season just denies…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1995 Angélus has a gorgeous bouquet with savoury red berry fruit, meat juices, cumin and light ferrous notes—very complex and engaging with fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a savoury entry, and the tannins have softened since I last tasted this vintage. It's decidedly old-school in style, and maybe a bit Bretty? But…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Calon Ségur, which was matured in 75% new oak, has a powerful and burly nose: quite intense black fruit meet star anise and cough candy scents. This has fine delineation, even if a little rustic compared to the wines nowadays. The palate is smooth on the entry, and the tannins have softened since…

A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 1996 Cos d’Estournel seems to have exaggerated its Pauillac-like aromatics since I last tasted it, with strong pencil lead/graphite aromas that threaten to dominate the black fruit. The palate is quite refined. Though this old-school Saint-Estèphe has some hard edges to contend with, there is plenty of sapidity and real depth towards the finish….