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2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

Gouge’s 2012 Nuits St. Georges Les Pruliers is less immediate than some of the other wines in the range. Here it is the crystalline purity of the aromas and flavors that stands out most. Violets, plums, licorice, sweet spices and tar are all woven together in a wine that shows the finesse Nuits can at…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Lafon-Rochet has a lively, floral bouquet that opens enthusiastically with aeration to reveal blackberry, melted tar and just a touch of black truffle mixed with cigar box. The palate is medium-bodied, taut, fresh and saline, with pliant tannins and a composed, relatively fleshy finish. This is worth investigating and arguably the best value…

2015 Brunello: The Vintage We Have Been Waiting For? (Apr 2020)

The bouquet holds back at first, yet with coaxing in the glass begins to show a beautiful mix of perfumed black cherry, mentholated spices, wild herbs, white smoke and hints of leather. On the palate, I find silky, enveloping textures, contrasted by cool-toned red and black fruits which flood the senses as brisk acids brought…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Rauzan-Ségla has a more earthy bouquet, with blackberry, autumn leaves, gravel and iris flower scents that gradually unfurl in the glass. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied, with sappy black fruit, refined and focused, quite sensual and cohesive. There is beguiling elegance on the finish, though it is quite backward, which explains why…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pape Clément is such a beautiful and inviting wine. Silky, perfumed and layered, the 2018 shows the more restrained, vibrant style that has become the norm here in recent years. Red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal and spice are front and center, while the oak – in the past so strong here – is…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pape-Clément has a very intense nose of blackberry, briar, cedar and crushed flowers. That showiness that I commented upon in barrel has ebbed away to reveal a most sophisticated nascent wine. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, layers of graphite-infused black fruit and a keen thread of acidity. An attractive touch of…