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2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2002 Dom Ruinart is a gorgeous, mature Champagne. Apricot, brioche, dried flowers, spice and chamomile fill out the layers. This is an especially broad, ample Champagne that offers notable textural presence. The ripeness of the year and the stature of Chardonnays from Montagne de Reims are both evident. Dosage is 6.5 grams per liter….

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Full ruby color. Vibrant, deep aromas of cassis, blackberry, minerals, licorice and smoky oak. Large-scaled and impressively rich in the mouth; chewy and very concentrated. A rather powerfully structured, nicely delineated wine that should be long-lived. Another Margaux chateau that has improved dramatically over the last few years.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux was the first vintage that touched 14% alcohol, and apparently the late Paul Pontallier was pessimistic about its prospect. It has a lovely nose with savoury red fruit and brown spices, a little ferrous in style but certainly fresh and enticing. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

(48% each merlot and cabernet sauvignon plus 4% petit verdot) Bright ruby-red. Very pure aromas of blackberry, cassis, violet and spicy oak. Very ripe and rich in the mouth, with a much more pliant texture than the grand vin Quite chewy on the back end, finishing with broad, sweet tannins and a touch of warmth….

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Pavillon Rouge is in a beautiful spot right now where it is just beginning to show signs of aromatic complexity and nuance. At fifteen years of age, the DNA of the vintage remains – Pavillon Rouge is a potent, hulking wine. Sweet tobacco, cedar, mint, dried flowers and anise add layers of nuance….

A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 1996 Mouton Rothschild was poured from an ex-château magnum. I had perhaps forgotten that this is probably the finest Mouton from that decade. Fragrant on the nose, it offers gorgeous, pure blackberry scents interlaced with cherry liqueur, cassis and tobacco, conveying a sense of controlled opulence. It is just very…Mouton. The palate sprints out…