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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Village, which includes 35% whole bunch, has a very composed bouquet of disarmingly pure, predominantly black fruit laced with blood orange. Very succinct. The medium-bodied palate features crunchy black fruit with traces of licorice, gaining in density toward a finish that grips gently and evolves a Morey-like structure. Just a touch of…

2011 Vintage Ports (May 2014)

Bright, saturated dark ruby. Spectacularly multifaceted nose combines high-pitched medicinal cherry, briary black raspberry, pungent menthol, dried herbs, incense, Indian spices and a whiff of passion fruit. Boasts great creamy depth and vinosity to its black raspberry and licorice flavors, with huge sweetness buffered by spicy minerality. The note of passion fruit carries through on…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2007 Climens has a lighter nose than other vintages, very well defined, airy but gaining intensity with time in the glass. Yellow plum, hints of jasmine emerge with time. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and minerally, lively with a tensile, sapid finish that keeps you coming…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has a lot of volatility on the nose that masks the terroir. It seems to address that with aeration, albeit remaining feisty. The palate is sweet and candid with “squishy” red fruit that lacks definition, the finish blurred and in want of more freshness. Hard-going on the dense…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

A vivid, powerful wine, the 2011 Bonnes-Mares impresses for its nuance, detail and huge, imposing structure. Constantly changing in the glass, the 2011 is remarkably crystalline for such a big wine. A host of blue/blackish fruit intermingled with violets, spices and balsamic notes wrap around the palate on the finish. This is a rare 2011…

Priceless: Roumier Bonnes-Mares 1945 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 2011 Bonnes-Mares is a rather perplexing wine that has varied both in sighted and blind tastings. The last, blind incidentally, confirms a rather lean nose for a Bonnes-Mares, redeemed by attractive oyster shell/kelp aromas. It remains a little reduced as it did before. The palate has good backbone, quite structured and grippy in the…