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A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 1996 Mouton Rothschild was poured from an ex-château magnum. I had perhaps forgotten that this is probably the finest Mouton from that decade. Fragrant on the nose, it offers gorgeous, pure blackberry scents interlaced with cherry liqueur, cassis and tobacco, conveying a sense of controlled opulence. It is just very…Mouton. The palate sprints out…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 La Violette has a compact, minty bouquet with vivacious red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit, marmalade and a touch of smoke. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and menthol-tinged black fruit. Its saccharine finish mellows after ten minutes, mustering more freshness and tension. Yet it is still way below how this Pomerol…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 La Violette is superb. Silky and expressive, with fabulous aromatic presence, La Violette is all finesse. Inky blue/purplish fruit tones open into hints of sweet tobacco, new leather and licorice. The 2015 is at once supple and also light on its feet, with superb balance and an inviting personality that will be virtually…

Chablis Gets the Côte de Beaune Treatment from Mother Nature (Jul 2016)

Piquant aromas of citrus fruits, white flowers and minerals. Dense, sappy and quite concentrated, showing terrific inner-mouth lift to its flavors of anise, flowers and crushed rock. Finishes with superb lift and length. Should make a lovely bottle.

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2015 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is bright, precise and crystalline – in other words, a classic expression of this great grand cru. White flowers, crushed rocks, mint and slate all run through this super-expressive, nuanced Chablis from Dauvissat. Even in this warm, radiant vintage, the personality of Preuses comes through loud and clear…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Bélair-Monange has an intriguing bouquet with red plum, mocha, leather and antique bureau aromas. This is not as immediate or as generous as its peers, yet it is imbued with a compelling complexity. The palate is very well balanced with fine mineralité that seems to have bubbled up to the surface in recent…