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Vinous Table: La Trompette, London, UK

The 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows a touch of VA on the nose at first, though aeration benefits the aromatics, gaining delineation as hints of caramel and star anise infuse opulent black, plummy fruit. The palate is very well balanced, with silky tannins and a sweet core of candied, more red-toned fruit than the…

Mosel 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (Jun 2017)

Apple jelly, pear preserves and caramel studded with white raisin and candied citrus peels make for an aromatic display of head-turning intensity and a creamy, glycerol-rich palate of similarly remarkable concentration and allure. A vein of fresh apple and grapefruit is tapped to introduce unexpected primary juiciness into the layers of confitured, lightly torrefied and…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Inky ruby. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, potpourri, exotic spices and incense, all sharpened by a vibrant mineral topnote. Stains the palate with concentrated, sharply focused blackberry, bitter cherry, violet pastille and fruitcake flavors that deftly blend power and delicacy. Shows superb clarity and resonating florality on a strikingly long,…

Castillo Ygay 1959–2016: A Legacy in Present Tense

Solar energy defines the 2005 Castillo Ygay (89% Tempranillo, 11% Mazuelo). The aromatics combine clean, precise oak—cedar and sandalwood—with an expansive bouquet of menthol accents and a savory herbal thread. There is fruit presence beneath the frame. On the palate, the tannins remain active, supported by wood that lengthens the wine and brings a lightly…

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon is soft, understated and classy, all of which make it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next 15-20 years. The purity of the red-fleshed fruit is striking, as is the wine’s freshness and overall silkiness. All of the elements are so well balaned. The 2017 naturally doesn’t have…

Generosity and Diversity – Mosel 2018: Graach to Grünhaus (Nov 2020)

Musky, decadent lily and peony perfume as well as a hint of mint mingle with scents of very ripe pear and Persian melon. The palate is creamy and delicate, leading to a caressingly sustained finish so full of flowers that you practically have the impression of inhaling it. Like some of Thanisch’s other best 2018s,…