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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 86% cabernet sauvignon, 12% merlot, and 2% petit verdot; pH 3.7; 13.7% alcohol) Bright ruby-purple. Complex, pure aromas of fresh blueberry, blackcurrant, truffle, violet and black pepper are accented by sexy new oak (100% this year, up from 90% in 2009). Began a bit brooding in the middle palate but gained in…

The Riches and Richness of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Dec 2019)

Lurid ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes raspberry liqueur, cherry compote, exotic spices and candied lavender. Juicy, seamless and alluringly sweet, offering impressively concentrated and sharply delineated flavors of sappy red fruits, succulent herbs, spicecake and candied flowers that spread out steadily on the back half. Densely packed but also lithe in character, finishing…

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

Good full, deep, bright red. Black and blue fruits complicated by menthol and brown spices on the nose. Chewy and powerfully structured but more monolithic in the early going than the Amoureuses, showing little in the way of easy sweetness. This tactile but compact wine seems to be in the process of shutting down in…

The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

The 2010 Bonnes-Mares is explosive and totally exciting. A big, broad-shouldered frame supports a core of black fruit, mint, flowers and licorice in this powerful, massively structured wine. Here, too, it is the wine’s energy and focus that truly stand out most. The finish turns weightless and totally sublime. As usual, I tasted the Bonnes-Mares…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(72.5% cabernet sauvignon, 25.5% merlot and 2% petit verdot; 87 IPT, 14.3% alcohol, 40% of total production) Deep, almost opaque glass-staining ruby. Clove, cedar and herb notes on the nose, with black fruit aromas lurking underneath. Clean and fresh but presently dominated by oak, with black fruit and cedar flavors currently held in check. The…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Les Forts de Latour puts the Carruades de Lafite in the shade with its fabulous and disarmingly pure black fruit laced with tobacco and smoke. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and an unerring and inspiring sense of symmetry towards the finish. This is a Deuxième Vin…