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Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Bélair-Monange has a straight-laced bouquet compared to its peers, with black plum, wild strawberry fruit, mint and mahogany bureau aromas. The oak is nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. There is a sense of symmetry that I really appreciate. It's very focused with a healthy dab of black pepper toward…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard Haut Densité 1er Cru, from vines planted at 20,000 per hectare, has the most backward and austere nose of Lamy’s whites at this stage. The palate is well-balanced with a malic entry and fine depth. Quite a “serious” Saint-Aubin that comes across more like a Puligny in style. Good…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard 1er Cru has a straight down the line limestone-scented bouquet with a touch of shucked oyster shells. The palate is very harmonious, taut and fresh, with crisp acidity and impressive tension. A surfeit of energy on the finish, this is a seriously fine Saint-Aubin.

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 1er Cru has a slightly nutty, Meursault-like bouquet that needs a little more freshness. It feels a little more mature than a 2020. There is something a bit static about the aromatics. The palate is balanced with a tangy opening, a simple Chardonnay rather than a definable Saint-Aubin….

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 1er Cru, a mix of 10- and 80-year-old vines, is elegant on the nose and quite refined. Touches of orchard fruit and white peach and just a hint of marzipan in the background that betrays the warm summer. The palate is well-balanced, very saline, taut and focused. Then, it clams…

Castillo Ygay 1959–2016: A Legacy in Present Tense

From a warmer vintage, the 2009 Castillo Ygay (81% Tempranillo, 19% Mazuelo) is more forward and already feels “made,” with oak at the front. Cedar and sandalwood lead, followed by mature, dried fruit—dried plum, a soft maraschino-cherry note—while the tertiary register is less visible because the wine reads oddly primary for its age. It still…