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Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Medium-deep ruby. Perfumed, sexy nose is redolent of smoky violet, ripe black cherry and minerals. Soft and fleshy on entry, but with strong, polished tannins and bright, harmonious acidity nicely framing the rich, ripe red cherry and plum flavors. Wonderful balance and a long, clean finish make this enjoyable midweight a standout. Congratulations to owner…

Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Brilliant violet. Powerful, smoke-tinged dark berry preserve, candied violet, olive and fruitcake aromas show excellent clarity and pick up a spicy element with air. Palate-staining blackberry, cherry liqueur, bitter chocolate and floral pastille flavors are sharpened by a suggestion of cracked pepper. Surprisingly light on its feet given the depth of flavor and power. Finishes…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Clinet has a gorgeous bouquet of copious red berry fruit mixed with truffle and undergrowth scents, all fresh and vibrant. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and, like the L’Evangile that preceded it at this blind tasting, displays noticeable acidity. However, it is more knitted together than that wine, and it fans…

A Taste of Champagne at Eleven Madison Park, New York (Jun 2009)

The 1999 Gosset Grand Millésime, tasted from magnum, was spectacular, and far more interesting than the same wine from bottle. Smoke, ash, graphite and toasted oak emerged from this fat, full-bodied Champagne. It was superb.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Pale gold, with a lively, energetic mousse. High-pitched, intensely floral aromas of white rose, honeysuckle, fresh peach and ripe lime. A fresh, bright midweight, offering assertive, spicy flavors of apple, ruby-red grapefruit and pear, along with notes of cinnamon and mace. Intense, tangy and powerful through the lively finish, which shows pronounced notes of licorice…

Priceless: Roumier Bonnes-Mares 1945 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 1992 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a vintage that for some reason has cropped up a couple of times recently, having first encountered the wine in 2007. It has been consistent from bottle to bottle. Leafy and autumnal on the nose, it is well defined if just lacking the fruit of other vintages, but there…