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Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Trotanoy is a vintage that I have not seen for a few years, but what a wine this is – the best since the 1975. Showing only modest bricking on the rim, the bouquet is entrancing with blackcurrant, black truffle, light fig and cassis notes, not rich but sumptuous in style, all with…

Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons

I wanted to start lunch with an approachable vintage of the Cuvée S. The 1999 fits the bill perfectly. Mature aromatics and a svelte figure are immediately appealing. Crushed leaves, chamomile, marzipan and almond show lovely aromatic and flavor development. Medium in body and wonderfully complex, the 1999 really blossoms with food.

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru displays too much reduction on the nose, missing the éclat of Chartron’s Leflaive although it does improve with aeration and attains satisfying delineation. The palate is bitter on the entry with sour lemon and a twist of orange rind, just a bit of dryness that creeps in towards…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy Additions (Jan 2021)

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, one of Boillot’s strongest wines, has a delightful bouquet with well-defined scents of dried honey, hazelnut and crushed rock, quite Meursault-like in style. The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity, not amazingly complex overall, yet I admire its tension and length, with quite a persistent spicy aftertaste….

Vinous Table: Where Do I Eat In Burgundy? (Jan 2024)

Poured blind, the 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a very attractive bouquet with dried honey, white peaches, apricots and touches of beeswax. There is still a touch of oak to be assimilated, yet there is focus and precision here. The palate is very well balanced with fine depth, not the most complex Corton-Charlemagne, though it…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard Haut Densité 1er Cru, from vines planted at 20,000 per hectare, has the most backward and austere nose of Lamy’s whites at this stage. The palate is well-balanced with a malic entry and fine depth. Quite a “serious” Saint-Aubin that comes across more like a Puligny in style. Good…