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South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2015 Anwilka is a blend of 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 64% Shiraz and 7% Petit Verdot fermented in tronconic tanks and matured in 50% new French oak for 14 months. It has a very refined bouquet of pure black currant and bilberry fruit, less powerful yet more composed than some of the earlier vintages of…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Cos d’Estournel marries power with finesse. It has all the intensity that is typical of the wines here, but also a real sense of precision. Dark-toned fruit, licorice, leather, spice, tobacco and incense all unfold in a rich, heady wine with bitter, astringent tannins. The 2021 is hard to taste today, as it…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Cos d’Estournel has retained a Cabernet Sauvignon-driven nose, with pencil shaving scents infusing the black fruit, and a touch of dark chocolate and loam coming through with aeration. It is well-defined and composed, though it doesn’t have the complexity of some of the great recent vintages from the estate. The palate is medium-bodied…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Cos d’Estournel has an attractive nose, more complex than the Pagodes (as you would expect), graphite and subtle cigar box scents permeating the black fruit and the Cabernet Sauvignon more expressive at this stage vis-à-vis the Merlot. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. One of the most velvety Cos d’Estournel wines I…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Cos ‘Estournel is a wine of real breadth and volume. It is also quite a departure from recent vintages in that strong Cabernet aromatics are very much front and center. Cedar, tobacco, dried herbs, menthol and licorice lend notable complexity to the bouquet. I expect the 2021 will need time to be at…

Montalcino: The Great 2015 Brunellos & More (Apr 2020)

Luminous red. Delicately smoky and ripe on the nose, with deep raspberry and red cherry aromas complicated by notes of sandalwood, licorice, graphite and sweet pipe tobacco. Full and rich but also very bright, with red and dark berry flavors given life by juicy, harmonious acidity and very nicely framed by supple tannins. Closes long,…