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Castillo Ygay 1959–2016: A Legacy in Present Tense

It is telling to compare warm and cool years at the turn of the 2010s, when these wines increasingly reflect both vintage character and a firmly established house style. The 2010 Castillo Ygay (Tempranillo with a dash of Mazuelo) comes from a cool year and shows as such: initially closed and reductive, clearly mid-evolution. With…

2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Power and Balance (Mar 2017)

(raised in foudres) Deep ruby. Hugely aromatic red and dark berry, potpourri and floral scents are underscored by smoky minerality and an exotic suggestion of Asian spices. Sappy, focused and impressively deep yet lively, offering alluringly sweet raspberry, cherry compote and spicecake flavors and a refreshingly bitter touch of blood orange. Puts on weight and…

Alto Piemonte, Valtellina & Points North (Mar 2022)

The 2018 Gattinara is a stunning wine in the making. Extraordinary in its complexity and nuance, the 2018 dazzles with a kaleidoscope of aromas, flavors and textures. Kirsch, hard candy, flowers and lively acids captivate the senses. The 2018 is elegant, weightless and full of character. It is, quite frankly, everything Gattinara can and should…

Castillo Ygay 1959–2016: A Legacy in Present Tense

Currently in a shutting-down phase, the 2012 Castillo Ygay (81% Tempranillo, 19% Mazuelo, Rioja Alta) feels as if it is pulling its shoulders in before a long sleep. A touch of reduction is present. The fruit is moving toward tertiary territory, with menthol hints and dried plum nuance over a background of oak and subtle…

Santa Cruz Mountains – The Gorgeous 2016s (Aug 2018)

The 2015 Monte Bello is just as phenomenal in this tasting as it has always been. Explosive and powerful in the glass, with fabulous textural richness, the 2015 has a lot to say. Super-ripe red and purplish berry fruit, rose petal and spice add myriad shades of complexity as this towering Monte Bello shows off…

Santa Cruz Mountains – The Chameleon (Oct 2024)

The 2015 Monte Bello is still a well-protected fortress of a wine. A more red-fruited and tobacco-laden Monte Bello, it’s mouthwateringly juicy and stubbornly tightly wound, giving rise to the question of whether it will ever let its guard down. Even so, the stuffing is undeniably there, so you might as well just keep waiting….