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Vinous Table: Emilia, Bangkok, Thailand (May 2024)

The first bottle was the aforementioned 1999 Grands-Echézeaux from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, which our host had opened the previous night at another dinner, so it was just ‘to see’. You could tell it was a great wine. However, it wasn’t an instance whereby a wine was better the second day, and it was too…

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Saturated ruby-red. Highly nuanced nose combines raspberry, redcurrant, plum, violet, rose petal, pepper, oak spice and tobacco. Sweet, fat, round and spicy, but with lovely vinosity. Quite backward after the Echezeaux. A wine with impressive density and verve, long and subtle on the back end.

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Focus on Grands-Échézeaux and Richebourg (Jul 2014)

A dark, brooding wine, the 1999 Grands-Échézeaux is simply sensational. Firm tannins provide the backbone in an intensely perfumed, savory Burgundy loaded with class and nuance. Smoke, tar, leather and herbs open up in a mysterious, intensely perfumed Burgundy that has so much still to say. The broad, textured finish makes it impossible to resist…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru has a reductive bouquet that, at the moment, occludes the terroir expression and mineralité. But I feel there is a complex and involving wine underneath, and it just needs bottle age. The palate is well-balanced, with a tangy entry and fine acidity. It’s peppery in style…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots has quite a potent bouquet, orchard fruit and liquorice scents, forward and generous. The palate is well balanced although it just lacks the killer tension and mineral drive of Lamy’s best cuvées this year.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(75% new oak; 4.4 grams per liter acidity; from vines in Aloxe, which Boillot picked last in 2016 before starting on Pinot Noir): Bright light-medium yellow. Subtly complex, musky aromas of peach, caraway seed, nutmeg, mace and hazelnutty lees. At once densely packed and penetrating, with a stony citric pungency giving precision to the seamless…