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Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1952 Lafite Rothschild, the second time I have tasted it, is actually similar to the first one encountered in the same restaurant. There are light red fruit tones, scents of leather-bound books and a touch of Band-Aid here. It’s simple but definable as a Lafite. The palate is armed with a sweet core of…

Umbria: Peeling Back the Layers (Oct 2024)

The 2022 Cervaro della Sala opens with a seductive bouquet as vanilla bean and crushed almond evolve into a blend of yellow apples, chamomile, mint and cardamom. It floods the palate with silken waves of ripe pit fruits and spices. Tactile mineral tones build tension over a core of brisk acidity. Balanced and refined, the…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Montrose is notoriously unpredictable, veering from monumental to misfire between bottles. This is definitely the former. It has an intense nose and yes, unmistakably there is some Brettanomyces, though it politely remains in the background and allows those lovely black fruit, loam and iris flower scents to blossom in the glass. Wonderful focus….

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Monthélie Village is a little more backward on the nose compared to the Auxey-Duresses, well defined but just a bit timid at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, nicely structured with dark berry fruit towards the finish.

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Bourgogne Rouge has a bright, perky bouquet with touches of red cherry and blueberry. The palate is well balanced, quite tensile and lively with ample depth and a more peppery finish than many of its peers. You could knock this back now if you want (why not?), but it will age for four…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Bourgogne Blanc has a light bouquet with touches of red apple and dewy meadow. It is certainly lighter than recent vintages, as you would expect, given the growing season. The palate, slightly waxy in texture, has plenty of depth, with fleeting touches of chamomile towards the finish. Drink over the next 3-5 years.