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Chablis 2012: Energy, Power and Class (Aug 2013)

The 2011 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre is all about grace. A gentle hint of spice leads to dried pears, crushed flowers, red berries and licorice. Constantly changing in the glass, the 2011 is a marvel to behold. Suggestions of smoke, graphite and licorice add layers of nuance in a magical wine loaded with class and…

2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)

Pale yellow. Stone fruits and spices on the nose. Supple, fat and plush but dry on the palate, with very ripe peach and nectarine fruit flavors dominating. Finishes dry, with a flavor of dusty stone. This is actually rather closed in the middle palate today and tricky to taste.

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru offers striking precision in its combination of density, richness and energy. Absolutely nothing stands out in a wine that truly dazzles from the very first taste. Citrus, slate, white pepper, mint and crushed rocks all race out of the glass as the aromatics come alive with a bit of…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is a wine that I have tasted a dozen times, from barrel until now, blind and non-blind. From the beginning I have been critical of this 2009, a wine built to appease the prevailing demand for hubristic, flamboyant Claret that in the process, lost the essence of its own character and…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is a wine that I have tasted a dozen times, from barrel until now, blind and non-blind. From the beginning I have been critical of this 2009, a wine built to appease the prevailing demand for hubristic, flamboyant Claret that in the process, lost the essence of its own character and…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2008 Latour has a fragrant and floral bouquet with blueberry and blackberry fruit, violet and pressed iris petals, almost Margaux-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied with touches of brown spice on the entry. There’s a good definition here. Graphite notes appear toward a finish that tapers a little, giving away that it comes…