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2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Blanc de Lynch Bages is terrific. The move to increase the Sauvignon Blanc and decrease the Muscadelle yields a white endowed with notable energy and brightness, a style I personally like quite a bit.

Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2019 Magnetic North is matured in cement eggs and used oak barrels. It has a lovely bouquet of peach skin, melted candle wax and light orange blossom scents that is simply irresistible. The aromatics are beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied and full of tension and energy, with a fine bead of acidity and…

Northern Rhône: Solid ’14 Reds and Outstanding ’15 Whites (Jul 2017)

Youthful violet. Powerful, smoke- and mineral-accented black and blue fruits and incense on the explosively perfumed nose. Stains the palate with sweet blueberry, cherry, violet pastille and spicecake flavors that show superb depth as well as vivacity. Seamless and alluringly sweet; a core of juicy acidity adds lift and spine. Supple tannins build steadily on…

South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2017 Columella has an outgoing, intense bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit mixed with sage, tobacco and thyme, that seems a little smudged initially but gains clarity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, plenty of red berry fruit, a generous sprinkling of white pepper and a hint of fennel….

Gala Dinner at the World Wine Symposium (Jan 2014)

Vega Sicilia’s 2008 Tinto Valbuena 5 Anos is compelling. A young, intense wine, the 2008 is going to need significant time to fully come together, but it boasts superb depth, persistence and a total sense of harmony. Hints of cedar, tobacco and sweet spices wrap around an intense core of dark fruit.

Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)

In this context, the 1998 Dom Pérignon Rosé comes across as a touch slender and compact, with early signs of oxidation and textures that are quickly moving towards being fully resolved. On its own, I imagine the 1998 Rosé might show better and be quite enjoyable, but in this setting, its proper place in history…