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Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

In my last sighted review of the 2016 Cos d’Estournel, I wrote: "I suspect it will close down for a period in its youth." Perhaps it is already beginning to shut down, because though this wine was deeply impressive, it fell just a notch short of ethereal previous bottles, despite its "pixelated black fruit" on…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2009 Léoville Las Cases is poured blind and just soars in the glass. What stunned me was the tension and precision on the nose, tropes that I do not find with many Left Bank wines in this vintage. It has fabulous mineralité with that crushed stone element more pronounced than ever. The palate has…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 87% cabernet sauvignon, 9% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; pH 3.79; 13.3% alcohol; represents a stringent 36% selection) Good full ruby-red. Pure, ripe aromas of cassis, graphite and cedar, lifted by floral and mineral high notes. Dense and amazingly concentrated yet light on its feet, with compelling, extremely pure…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Château Margaux is blessed with a stunning nose that delivers intense blackberry and cranberry scents, crushed rose petals and touches of slate. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, taut and quite linear with an effortless and precise finish that is a pure joy. You have the sense of a Château Margaux…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1986 Yquem has a rich and generous bouquet with crème brûlée, saffron and dried mango aromas, along with a patisserie scent that is quite pronounced at the moment. There is a spirituous element here that is disconcerting. The palate is well balanced with a spicy entry and plenty of ginger mixed with mandarin and…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1986 Yquem has a rich and generous bouquet with crème brûlée, saffron and dried mango aromas, along with a patisserie scent that is quite pronounced at the moment. There is a spirituous element here that is disconcerting. The palate is well balanced with a spicy entry and plenty of ginger mixed with mandarin and…