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Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

Tasted numerous times, the 1985 Château Margaux probably doesn’t deserve to follow the 1982 and 1983 and should be considered in its own right. Sensual and pure on the nose, this offers gorgeous, pixelated red fruit blossoming in the glass with inkwell and violet hints. The palate is lace-like, refined and embroidered with a very…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Château was not tasted at the domaine, but at a private La Paulée, where the owner Louis Ng poured this wine. I include it here for convenience. It has a bright red cherry and crushed strawberry nose laced with orange zest that leaps from the glass. The palate is very…

Pazo Restaurant (Jun 2010)

Bonneau’s 1999 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve des Celestins was utterly captivating right out of the bottle. It showed marvelous depth and richness at first, but then lost some intensity over several hours. A mélange of candied cherries, herbs and dried flowers lingered on the finish.

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

Deep red. Jammy red fruits, roasted herbs and cinders on the nose. Suppler and more layered than the first 1999 sample, with more expressive flavors of smoked meat, red fruits, minerals and chocolate. Very rich, pliant wine that finishes with big but ripe chocolatey tannins and excellent length.

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Angélus contains 60% Cabernet Franc, the highest percentage ever, and also reflects an increasing use of wooden foudres (half the Cabernet Franc or 30% of the whole blend). It has a more understated bouquet compared to the bravura vintages of the last three years, demanding gentle coaxing to reveal scents of brambly black…