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Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Certan de May is a Pomerol that I am fond of, yet recent vintages have left me perplexed. This vintage does nothing to reduce the number of lines across my furrowed brow. The aromatics never click out of second gear, plenty of earthy, decayed leaf aromas but insufficient fruit to really make the…

Power and Energy: The 2018 and 2017 Northern Rhônes (Apr 2020)

Saturated violet color. Intensely perfumed ripe black/blue fruits, violet candy, exotic spices and smoky minerals show fine definition and lift. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering deeply concentrated yet lively black raspberry, boysenberry, floral pastille and spicecake flavors and a late touch of licorice. Finishes smooth, sappy and extremely long, with chewy tannins lending…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru has a crushed stone scented bouquet. A peppermint trace comes through with aeration. The nose is controlled and citrus-fresh, and I admire the energy. The palate is poised and concentrated, and a silver thread of acidity keeps this Grand Cru tensile and focused. Bright and lightly spiced…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Clerc Milon is striking. Here, the interplay of dense fruit and supporting structure make for a wonderfully complete and expressive wine. Dark blue stone fruit, licorice, lavender, spice and menthol are all beautifully delineated in the glass. The aromatic and structure of both Cabernets come through with notable energy and precision. The 2016…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Clerc-Milon has a crisp, graphite-infused bouquet of well-defined black fruit, hints of peony and iris petals showing underneath. The classic palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, well-judged acidity and just the right amount of austerity toward a finish that has a bitter edge. Excellent (and less "aloof" than I found 12 months earlier)….

Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Alluring 2023s and Benchmark 2010s (Nov 2024)

Alluring forest floor, ripe strawberry, melted licorice and peppery elements unfurl as the classic 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape opens in the glass. Full-bodied and concentrated, this serious wine delivers on all fronts, precisely combining substance, freshness and sophistication. The balance here is so impressive. An energetic and persistent close wraps it all up.