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Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru feels a little disjointed on the nose, brambly red fruit, quite earthy, just a touch of reduction here. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, quite solid and dense, initially hemmed in but it responds positively with aeration and develops some lovely earthy red fruit towards its structured finish. It…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaumonts 1er Cru is matured entirely in new oak. It has a more floral bouquet than the Village, and it’s quite intense, although you might argue that the Vosne-Village boasts just as much definition. The palate is well balanced with blood orange, dark plum, hints of blueberry and candied orange toward…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 La Grande Rue Grand Cru is aromatically tailored in a similar vein to the domaine’s other Grand Crus: ethereal and floral in style with rose-petal-infused red fruit, the quintessential Pinoté, and hints of crushed rock developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, cohesive and poised, gaining weight with aeration toward…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a fragrant, perfumed and classier bouquet than Hudelot-Baillet’s Bonnes-Mares: well-defined with clever use of stems. Wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. Lovely symmetry and poise build towards a linear yet intense finish. It will require 4-5 years to subsume the oak, but there is great potential,…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 1er Cru, matured in 100% new oak, has a more introverted, backward bouquet than the Beaumonts. It offers precocious blackberry and raspberry preserve scents, then crushed stone aromas. This feels mercurial as it develops floral aromas of incense and crushed violet with time in glass. The palate is well balanced,…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru is much more backward on the nose but give it time and it reveals spellbinding pure dark plum and wild strawberry aromas interlaced with crushed limestone and blood orange. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins, fine backbone, taut and fresh with just the right amount of salinity on…