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A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is a little more terse on the nose, but I appreciate that. Light sea spray and oyster shell scents emerge with time. The palate lacks some depth and freshness, is a little oxidative and seems to fatigue in the glass. Short-term. Tasted blind at the Burgfest…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru displays some botrytis on the honeyed nose and as a consequence misses some delineation. The palate is quite evolved with orange rind, marmalade and some oxidative notes that are attractive in their own way but a bit worrying and out of place in a young Les Pucelles. I…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Meursault Clos Richemont 1er Cru shows good depth and pliancy, especially within the context of the year. Scents of apricot, white flowers, spice, butter and hazelnut open first, followed by a kick of tropical overtones that develop later. I very much like the inner core of strength here. – Antonio Galloni

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has an attractive bouquet with melted candle wax, yellow plum and lanolin aromas. I appreciate the typicité in this Corton Charlemagne, and it is well-defined. It’s one of the most intellectual aromatics that you have to sit and ponder. The palate is taut and fresh. There’s a clever reduction at…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 1er Cru has a slightly nutty, Meursault-like bouquet that needs a little more freshness. It feels a little more mature than a 2020. There is something a bit static about the aromatics. The palate is balanced with a tangy opening, a simple Chardonnay rather than a definable Saint-Aubin….

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 1er Cru, a mix of 10- and 80-year-old vines, is elegant on the nose and quite refined. Touches of orchard fruit and white peach and just a hint of marzipan in the background that betrays the warm summer. The palate is well-balanced, very saline, taut and focused. Then, it clams…