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2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Very tight but pure scents of citrus peel, wet stone and menthol, plus a whiff of toasty oak (37% new in 2016). Remarkably silky, fleshy and broad and yet this grand cru conveys an almost electric impression of energy that’s rare for such a layered, rich wine. A bit less citrussy than the Perrières but…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Grands Vignes Rouge 1er Cru has a deep garnet colour. This is burlier and more powerful than its peers, more savoury in style with hints of dried blood infusing the red fruit, leaning a little into that New World-like opulence that is atypical for the vintage. The palate is…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 La Romanée Grand Cru has a very strange nose with raspberry and strawberry, but there is an unwanted plastic element that is very distracting. Thankfully, that tincture does recede after 20 minutes but not completely. The palate is medium-bodied with a little hardness on the entry and just a touch of underripeness. Tea…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Vosne-Romanée La Colombière does not quite exude the same carefree red berry fruit, though there is an attractive touch of iris flower. The palate is well balanced with fresh acidity, a pleasant sharpness here with blood orange underlying the red cherry and kirsch fruit on the finish. Fine.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Talbot has an agreeable nose, relatively pure, not sur-maturité, simple but charming with kirsch and desiccated orange peel. There’s warmth here, but the fruit is not stewed. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins. There is a bit of over-ripeness, prune and dates toward the finish with brown spices and leather. Not bad,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

(70% cabernet sauvignon, 24% merlot, and the rest cabernet franc and petit verdot) Medium red-ruby. Aromatic nose combines currant, kirsch, licorice and fresh herbs, lifted by exotic oak spices. Supple and moderately ripe, with slightly medicinal, minty flavors and good breadth. Not especially gripping wine but finishes with reasonably ripe tannins and good length. Margaux