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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of cassis and violet. Dense and tactile in the mouth; a huge, chewy wine with major extract but also considerable refinement. Almost painfully backward today, and a bit less perfumed than it was in the year or so after the bottling, but the huge tannins show no hardness. Another…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1996 Château Margaux stands as one of the pinnacles during Paul Pontallier’s illustrious tenure. I remember it dazzling out of barrel, perhaps my first memory of tasting wine at that prenatal stage. It has retained the fabulous tension and freshness on the nose, every atom infused with mineralité, subtle pressed flower/violet scents unfurling with…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru has a slight reduction on the nose, a touch of burnt match, although there is decent fruit here. The palate is medium-bodied with rather drying tannins and dark berry fruit mixed with menthol toward the finish, which needs a little more persistence.

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru has a complex nose of dark berry fruit mixed with touches of meat juice and spicebox, slightly musky, with neatly integrated oak. The poised palate offers grainy tannins, crisp and crunchy red berry fruit laced with orange peel, and gentle grip toward a finely proportioned finish that…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has a very detailed bouquet of gorgeous red currant, cranberry and mineral aromas, plus a touch of tobacco in the background; quite leafy in style. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine backbone, quite firm and slightly powdery in texture. Focused with good grip on the sappy, overtly…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has an attractive bouquet with beeswax, touches of orange pith and quince, nicely focused and poised. The oak is well-integrated. The palate is well balanced with a slightly waxy-textured entry. It has very good depth but with high VA that renders it like a natural wine on the finish. Bit…