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Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

The 2002 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is wonderfully open, expressive and resonant. The richness of the vintage comes through nicely, yet the more overt elements are very nicely balanced by a good deal of freshness. Baked apple, pastry, candied lemon, dried flowers and warm, toasty notes shape the generous, resonant finish. With time in…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light yellow-gold. Deeply pitched aromas of poached pear, fresh fig, orange custard and honey, with smoky mineral and buttered toast nuances adding complexity. Stains the palate with ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors that are given spine and focus by juicy acidity. Closes taut, sappy and extremely long, with an echo of toastiness and wonderful…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2002 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Vinothèque is such a classic wine for the vintage. Explosive and opulent to the core, the 2022 is seriously impressive. Baked apple tart, chamomile, acacia honey, hazelnut, coffee and orange confit stain the palate. Plush, generous contours wrap it all together in style. This is what 2002 is all…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 1998 Vieux Château Certan saw both the Merlot and Cabernet reaching maturity early and, unusually, around the same time due to the Cabernet Franc suffering during the drought. Ergo, the blend is 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Harvest was September 21 to 26 and cropped at 34hl/ha. The bouquet is far superior to…

Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 1998 Vieux Château Certan has an open, generous and expressive bouquet that I have always found quite exotic in style, thanks to its precocious cassis and blueberry scents, although maturity is turning down the volume. As before, there are subtle notes of menthol developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, relatively…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Bright ruby-red. Cassis, raspberry, cedar, lead pencil and spicy oak on the nose. Rich, sweet and deep, with firm acids giving grip and verve to the plum, raspberry, lead pencil and bitter chocolate flavors. Wonderfully concentrated, lively and very long. The yield here, according to Thienpont, was just 34 hectoliters per hectare.