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Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru displays a little more depth and complexity than the Les Preuses. Touches of yellow plum, orange blossom, flint and light white tea scents percolate through with aeration. The palate is very intense on the entry and a bit richer than the Les Preuses. The harmonious, intense, well-defined finish…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The 2011 Chambolle-Musigny is a pretty, accessible wine, but today I get the impression the 2011 may be headed for a period of dormancy. The relaxed, easygoing personality of the vintage is in evidence, but the fruit isn’t as generous or resonant as it was a years ago. I have seen the villages blossom with…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Deep, bright red. Very ripe aromas of black raspberry and coffee/mocha torrefaction. Expressive, rich flavors of crushed cherry, dark raspberry, coffee and spices are nicely framed by spicy acidity. Conveys a jellied fruit character along with an almost warm floral element. This fairly tight, long wine still has some corners that need softening.

The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

Colin-Morey’s 2011 Meursault Perrieres is round, seamless and strikingly beautiful. At the same time, there is plenty of power in the glass, yet the style remains one built more on volume than minerality, which is not entirely surprising, considering this plot is on the lower slopes of the hill. There is a lot to like…

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(one of the two 350-liter barrels was new): Pale bright yellow with a green tinge. Tangerine, pepper, ginger and fresh herbs on the nose. Sweet and silky in the mouth, but with terrific lemony cut to the ripe citrus and crushed rock flavors. In a cooler style thanks to adamant underlying minerality. Shows the refinement…

The 2009 Red Burgundies (May 2011)

The 2008 Musigny Vieilles Vignes is a wine I could smell all day. The explosive bouquet literally jumps from the glass, followed by deep, beautifully delineated layers of fruit. This shows terrific concentration and depth, dazzling finesse, and a nicely pointed, direct finish. It is an eternal wine.