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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Volnay Les Santenots 1er Cru comes from the top of the incline. It has quite an intense bouquet of cranberry, strawberry, orange peel and light tomato vine aromas, all well defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip on the entry. Very pure in style, leading to a bright finish that…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin En Reniard has a very attractive bouquet of plentiful raspberry and cranberry aromas that are well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red berry fruit. Nicely structured and, in fact, quite Morey-like on the finish. Very fine.

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru is tasted from two barrels. It demonstrates wonderful grace and precision with mineral-infused cranberry and wild strawberry fruit. There is a sense of vitality and sophistication here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin. The oak is beautifully integrated, notes of orange rind and even just a…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru has perhaps the most airy bouquet, it is very transparent at the moment, but the palate is much tighter and backward. There is good backbone here, but it is sulking and it is probably one of the Domaine’s wines that will require the longest bottle age. It has…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes, Francois Labet’s old-vine cuvée, is dark, dense and powerful. Black cherry, plum, gravel, spice and licorice give the 2016 a real feeling of gravitas. The Vieilles Vignes is an imposing, brooding Burgundy. It comes across as heavy and overextracted. I prefer the straight bottling for its greater aromatic…

Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016 (Jun 2019)

(13.2% alcohol; 18 hectoliters per hectare produced; from vines harvested on September 23): Bright, moderately saturated medium red. Explosive, fruit-dominated aromas of dark berries, cherry, spices, mint, menthol, flowers and minerals. Conveys compelling sappy energy in a silky, medium-bodied package, with its black fruit and herb flavors complicated by a touch of saline minerality. Boasts…