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Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Alluring 2023s and Benchmark 2010s (Nov 2024)

The 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve knocks it out of the park with rosewater, kirsch, garrigue, tobacco, white pepper, melted licorice and a flicker of ivy. On the full-bodied palate, rich flavor concentration is masterfully balanced by vibrant freshness, resulting in a sensation of complete harmony. What’s so striking about this Rayas is how it lays bare…

2011 and 2010 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2013)

Vivid ruby. An explosively perfumed bouquet displays red and dark berry preserves, potpourri, licorice and smoky minerals. Broad and fleshy, offering deeply concentrated black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a strong note of floral pastilles. Chewy tannins give grip to a powerful, alluringly sweet, endless finish. Shows as much density as I can recall…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a clean, precise bouquet displaying impressive mineralité and tension. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Fine focus here, good energy and precision leading to spicy and persistent finish. Maybe not as classy as other Bâtard that I tasted, but let’s see how it will…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a notably high-toned nose, offering scents of black cherries and fleeting touches of blueberry fruit and lavender, but there is some oxidation here. The palate is medium-bodied, with saturated tannins and what feels like late-picked fruit that loses a bit of Pinoté and transparency. I feel that this is…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Lafite-Rothschild put in a great performance at this dinner. In fact, this bottle was better than one opened at the château in 2018. Stunning delineation, almost crystalline, with youthful, mineral-laden black fruit laced with truffle and allspice. Very complex. The palate is medium-bodied with finely woven tannins, perfect acidity and a real peacock’s…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Le Corton Grand Cru has an upfront, ripe red cherry and crushed strawberry nose that feels a little monotone against its peers, perhaps due to some Brettanomyces. It would benefit from more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, mealy and a slightly attenuated towards the finish. This is a perplexing showing….