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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru is a deep ruby color. This is not a wine that soars from the glass; it bides its time, unfolding with every swirl, revealing layers of black and blueberry fruit and touches of blood orange and Seville oranges. The palate is where the action is: fabulous fine tannins and a…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru has a fragrant bouquet with red berry fruit and briar. A clever use of whole bunches imparts subtle peppery scents. It is gentle and classy. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe red berry fruit, commendable mineralité and tension. Almost Richebourg-like in structure, grippy, and “serious” towards the finish, this is…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru comprises four and a half barrels this year, three new and two filled with Chardonnay beforehand. It has a powerful and multilayered bouquet, comingling red and black fruit laced with iris and violet. The palate is has red top notes and black bass notes, interwoven by a fine line of…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a relatively straightforward bouquet that lacks the complexity of its peers. It’s too reductive and worsens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, here only slightly reduced, solid with lightly spiced red fruit, though the finish feels a bit blunt, possibly due to the SO2 and the oak. Give…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru offers mulberry, sous-bois and very subtle star anis aromas on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, quite taut and fresh, linear at the moment with touches of blood orange and Clementine towards the finish. Give this several years in bottle.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Bright red-ruby. Strong redcurrant and cherry liqueur aromas, complemented by sweet oak. Very rich and thick, with a candied, liqueur-like quality that reminded me of a chocolate truffle. Very Clos Vougeot in its medicinal, menthol character, but can’t quite match the lift or class of Grivot’s ’05s from higher-altitude sites. This is a more earth-bound…