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Vinous Table: Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)

The 2005 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu from Comtes Lafon is superb. Having recently tasted the 2009, 2010 and 2011, I am curious to see where the 2005 is. Still a big, broad-shouldered wine, the 2005 is beautiful, open and expressive on this night. The wine’s breadth and pure power are both impressive. At the same…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Bright ruby-red. Pristine, fruit-driven aromas of blackberry liqueur, black and red cherry and violet. A Volnay of compelling density, sweetness and power but at the same time brilliantly detailed and firmly structured. Great verve here. Finishes extremely long and perfumed, with a medicinal reserve and a piquant element of black pepper. Lafon notes that his…

1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. High-pitched, mourvedre-dominated aromas of blackberry, shoe polish and licorice, with a lightly floral topnote. Very dense and very primary, with an intense spiciness at its core. Quite powerfully structured, even austere, and perhaps already shutting down. Finishes with huge but even palate-coating tannins and great length. This will age in bottle for many…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Deep red with ruby highlights. Pungent perfume of black cherry, raspberry, minerals and licorice. Juicy but tightly wound, hinting at a racy high note of blood orange. All of these wines are showing firm tannic spine today but hiding their fat.

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2013 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru might be even better than the Les Lavières with complex aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, bay leaf and crushed red roses. The palate is very detailed and poised, surfeit with tension and energy with a peacock’s tail on the finish that just leaves you gasping for the next…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Pale yellow. Sexy scents of white peach, ginger, crushed stone and menthol. Nicely concentrated, layered wine with good energy and lemony cut, not to mention density of grain, for village wine. Finishes penetrating and firm.