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The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

(production of 16 hectoliters per hectare): Deep red-ruby color. Aromas of black cherry, animal fur and dark chocolate. Very rich and classically dry, offering a suaver, finer-grained texture than the Champans. Shows a slightly roasted quality to its dark fruit flavors along with complicating notes of spices and espresso. Here the tannins are dusty and…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

Layers of intense, graphite-infused minerality underpin the 2012 Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu. Black fruit, tar, spices, violets and lavender all flesh out in the glass. Here, too, the Santenots is deeply marked by the pure intensity and richness of the year but there is plenty of energy and structure to balance the wine’s more overt leanings. Readers…

Ten Years On: Burgundy 2013 (Oct 2023)

The 2013 Echézeaux Grand Cru was picked around 3 October. It has an intense redcurrant, raspberry and marmalade-tinged bouquet. There’s fine focus, and graphite touches come through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rugged tannins, fine acidity and dark red fruit laced with black olive and sea salt. It has a muscular finish…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Bright, dark red. Complex, soil-driven scents of raspberry, dried flowers, mint, porcini and truffley underbrush. At once silky and taut, displaying superb inner-mouth perfume and salinity. Sensual and totally filled in, delivering a perfect balance of seductiveness and tension thanks to its resonant mineral energy. Made mostly from vines in Les Cruots, with a bit…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(13.2% alcohol; two of the seven barrels were new): Medium red. Ineffable high-pitched perfume of crushed raspberry, red cherry and blood orange. Boasts compelling richness and depth of fruit, but a distinctly red quality in spite of its youthfully medicinal character. A wine of great sucrosité and early balance, this spectacular Volnay maintains its outstanding…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru has a broody, earthy bouquet of slightly smudged red berry fruit that gradually opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with stringy tannin, a little chewiness in the mouth and some hardness on a finish that cuts away more swiftly than I would like. I just think this is…