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2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

Just as I found from barrel, the 2021 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is stubborn on the nose at first, opening with a few swirls of the glass to reveal blackberry, cassis and light juniper aromas. The oak here is beautifully integrated. The palate is classical in style, the Cabernet patently in the driving seat—as you…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande needs more coaxing from the glass than previous vintages. Blackberry, juniper and iris flower scents reluctantly unfold, though tasting a second glass, I found the nose more forthcoming. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. The Cabernet is in the driving seat, imparting black fruit, a touch of graphite…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

Do you want the good news or the bad news first? Let’s start with the good. The 2021 Pichon Comtesse is epic and certainly among the great wines of this vintage. Sadly, the coulure and mildew in the first year of organic farming plus dehydration at the end of the growing season took with it…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Brooding ruby. An expansive, highly complex bouquet evokes ripe, spice-tinged black and blue fruits, olive, potpourri, game and incense; a smoky mineral note builds as the wine stretches out. Coats the palate with deep, mineral-accented cassis, kirsch, bitter chocolate and violet pastille flavors that show outstanding definition and developing sweetness. Gripping tannins add shape to…

The 2022 Champagne Spring Preview (May 2022)

The 2009 Rosé Comtes de Champagne is one of the very finest recent editions I can recall. The intensity of both the Pinot and the vintage comes through loud and clear in a vinous, resonant Comtes Rosé that is engaging right out of the gate. Dark red berry fruit, spice, crushed flowers and blood orange…

Exploring New Releases from Coastal Tuscany (Aug 2023)

A stellar wine, the 2020 Grattamacco is dark, vibrant and nuanced to the core. Black fruit, lavender, spice, leather, menthol and dried herbs infuse the 2020 with tons of character and complexity. Deep yet also wonderfully translucent, the 2020 is one of the most finessed Grattamaccos I can remember tasting. There’s incredible depth and resonance…