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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Meursault En La Barre has an earthy nose with hints of wild mushroom infusing the malic fruit. (There is just a touch of reduction, so plan on decanting if opening young.) The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a fine sense of energy and possibly a little more persistence…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Bright straw-yellow. Musky crushed-stone minerality lifts aromas of fresh peach, lime and orange zest. Boasts terrific salty intensity and minerality on the palate, with an old-vines intensity and inner-mouth tension that call for at least a few years of bottle aging. A concentrated midweight with strong soil character and noteworthy rising, palate-dusting persistence. I prefer…

Chablis Gets the Côte de Beaune Treatment from Mother Nature (Jul 2016)

(bottled in January): Pale, bright yellow. Fresh yellow peach, apricot, lemon and toast on the nose, accented by a subtle spearmint note and a whiff of oyster shell. Densely packed, intense, saline and penetrating; tightly wound yet somehow pliant, this wine offers considerable charm owing to its early balance and sweetness but is built for…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Pale, bright yellow. Sexy, musky aromas of stone fruits, apple, buttery lees and nutty oak. Sweet, plush and easygoing, with stone fruit flavors accented by oak spices. This round, ripe Meursault has sound supporting structure.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(an assemblage of eight parcels): Bright pale yellow. Peach and spices on the inviting nose. A supple, rather elegant fruit bomb on the palate; less rich but more spicy and delineated than the village Chassagne-Montrachet, with a touch of salty minerality adding grip to its bright yellow fruits. A step above the Chassagne in lift…