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2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(from a 1965 planting; picked near the end, on September 8; aging in 10% new oak): Bright medium yellow. Yellow peach, mirabelle and spices on the nose, with complicating notes of hazelnut and mint. Quite rich in the mouth, showing some spicy oak; the closest to exotic of these 2017s to this point and without…

Close to the Edge: Chablis 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is austere and recalcitrant on the nose, missing the volume and presence of the Montmains. The palate is balanced but relatively simple compared to William Fevre’s other Premier Crus, just missing the same delineation and steeliness on the finish.

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is very tight, but it was also racked just prior to this tasting, and Montée de Tonnerre is naturally a site that yields intensely mineral wines. Bright citrus, mint, chalk and white pepper open up gradually in a brisk, focused wine that needs time to show at…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes from the 12 parcels located around the appellation. It offers attractive dewy green apples, freshly sliced pear and hints of mirabelle on the nose, which needs a few swirls of the glass to awaken. The palate is well balanced with orange zest and citrus lemon and hints of lime, all…

Chablis: 2014 & 2013 (Aug 2015)

Bright, pale yellow-green. Precise aromas of lemon, lime and oyster shell, plus a note of mineral reduction. In the mouth, a sexy toasty nuance complements the ripe stone fruit and saline mineral flavors. Nicely pliant wine but also boasts very good inner-mouth tension and purity. Finishes tactile and long, showing very little impact of the…

2013 Chablis: Living on the Edge (Aug 2014)

The 2013 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots is another of the more reticent wines in this range of 2013s. Bright, piercing citrus notes are followed by a bevy of slate, smoke, dried pear and savory herb overtones. Crystalline, pure and constantly changing in the glass, the Côte Bouguerots possesses tons of complexity and pedigree all the…