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Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2004 Cristal is nuanced and classy right out of the gate. Hints of lemon confit, marzipan, tangerine oil, spice and chamomile are all suggestive of a Champagne that has arrived at its first inflection point of early maturity. The interplay of slightly more mature notes with a good deal of freshness makes for an…

2014 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: A Dark Horse Emerges (Jan 2025)

The 2014 Insignia is in the zone today. Dark and expansive, it is a glorious wine. The 2014 shows the richer style of the year, along with the first signs of aromatic maturity. Espresso, leather, blueberry jam, cedar and tobacco all take shape in the glass. It's an ideal wine for drinking now and over…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru is consistent with my previous review (even though this bottle had been opened two days earlier). Baking powder, mandarin, yellow fruit and albumen notes on the nose are all very well defined. The palate is nicely balanced with a keen spine of acidity. It’s tangy towards the marmalade-tinged…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru is clean and precise on the nose – detailed crushed stone/limestone aromas intermingle with yellow plum, apple blossom and a touch of quince. The palate is very energetic and nervous on the entry, sporting the same reduction that I found on the 2019, though time will reveal the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Gruaud Larose seems to have lost some of its fruit concentration since I last tasted it in 2011. At 30-years of age it has moderate wide bricking on the rim though the core remains quite deep in colour. The bouquet is fully mature with scents of sage, liquorish and allspice permeating the dark…

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

As good as the 1995 Cristal (Late Disgorged) is, the 1996 may be even a touch better, as it has a bit more volume and also more layers of intensity. Taut yet wonderfully explosive, with fabulous energy, the 1996 captures all the best qualities of the vintage. In most 1996 retrospectives, Cristal makes a case…