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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2002)

Multidimensional nose offers baked apple, orange oil, acacia honey, white chocolate, toffee and earthy low tones. Expansive, superconcentrated and powerful but not aggressive, with wonderfully sweet flavors of orange, flowers and honey supported by strong underlying structure. An amazingly solid Champagne with the stuffing for extended development in bottle.

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

A total turn-on, the 1995 Comtes de Champagne is utterly magnificent. Orange marmalade, mint, smoke, hazelnuts, white truffles and honey blossom come to life in an exquisite, resonant Champagne that delivers the goods, big time. Opulent and exotic yet miraculously fresh for a 20 year-old wine, the 1995 Comtes is in a beautiful spot to…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2002)

Pale, green-tinged color. Incredible shiver-producing 99-point nose combines peach, lemon, iodine and steely, petrolly, slatey soil tones; I was reminded of Chevalier-Montrachet and great Mosel riesling. Full and creamy-smooth but extremely young. This brilliantly minerally wine seems to thicken and intensify after 10 or 15 seconds in the mouth, offering layer upon layer of soil…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Giscours is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. It is a vintage that I have never really warmed to over several encounters. Here it has a conservative bouquet with singed leather; damp undergrowth and almost mulch-like aromas infused the dark fruit. The palate is actually better than…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Giscours (Jan 2012)

(55% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot and 5% petit verdot; 28.8 g/l dry extract; 12.9% alcohol): Medium-deep red with a hint of garnet at the rim. Fresh aromas of strawberry, blackcurrant, almond flower and Oriental herbs. Sweet, suave and dense, with precise flavors of cassis and minerals complicated by an attractive floral touch. Finishes very smooth…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Beychevelle repeats its performance from a blind tasting in London earlier in 2018. It has an old-school bouquet of dusky black fruit, morels and that light seawater note. The palate is medium-bodied with quite sharp tannin and rustic in style, featuring leathery red fruit and iron ore, though as I noted before, it…