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2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 La Mission Haut-Brion has an open, feisty, lively bouquet with blackberry, briary, cedar, black olive and a light seaweed (Japanese nori) aroma. This is wonderful, an intoxicating bouquet. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, very focused with good weight and structure. This is a very convincing showing, at…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Deep ruby-purple. Expressive aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, underbrush, smoke and minerals. Juicy, spicy and on the lean side, but with excellent firmness and lift to the dark berry, tar and tobacco flavors. This gained considerable mid-palate sweetness and pliancy with air. But almost austere today on the minerally finish, which features ripe tannins and impressively…

Changing Gears in Barossa (Jun 2023)

This 2018 Shiraz Mount Edelstone is made with fruit from vines planted in 1912. It is a reserved yet highly complex Barossan style bringing broody aromas of roasted meats, soy sauce, blackberry, and fennel seed with oak in good support. Richly powered, it retains its composure while rippling with black olive and blackberry flavors kept…

2018 Brunello di Montalcino: The Rubik’s Cube Vintage (Dec 2022)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a model of grace and refinement, with exotic spice nuances that blow off to reveal wild strawberries, rosemary, dried flowers and worn leather. It’s unbelievably lifted and refined for the vintage, with a wave of saline-tinged red fruits that cascade across a core of zesty acidity. There’s an edginess…

New Releases from Napa Valley: 2012 and 2013 (Dec 2014)

The 2012 IX Estate is the biggest and most powerful of these wines. Firm tannins provide the backdrop for a huge core of fruit as this creamy, voluptuous Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend shows off its considerable personality. Game, smoke and tobacco add nuance on the finish. The IX Estate brings together some of the sensuality of…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru displays a lot of whole bunch on the nose, but they seem to dominate the fruit profile and terroir, notwithstanding the mineralité. The palate is lighter, more elegant than others, avoiding the sweet ripe fruit of its peers, but it lacks a bit of purity and the stems seem too…