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A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 2013 Lafleur is probably near the top of the tree as one of the worst vintages in recent years. To be frank, it is found lacking compared to, say, the 2014. With light earthy scents, the nose lacks the amplitude and complexity that you expect from this Pomerol. The palate is balanced and clean…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 L’Eglise-Clinet has a clean and precise bouquet with black fruit, sous-bois, shavings of black truffle and hints of morels. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins on the entry, red fruit laced with mocha and delicate acidity with a harmonious, if simplistic (for this estate) finish. Fine.

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is one of the most shut down of the whites in this vast range. Mineral and savory notes abound, but fruit is decidedly pushed into the background. Citrus confit, crushed rocks, mint and white pepper all race across the palate. There’s quite a bit of youthful…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

Strangely, this is my first note on the 1990 Yquem, a vintage tasted many times. Now 35 years old, it has an enticing bouquet of wild honey, barley sugar, crème brûlée and figs that billows with aeration, certainly more opulent than the ’89 but quite irresistible. The palate is vibrant and poised, weighty with plenty…

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2017 Barolo Liste is the most potent and brooding wine in this range. Iron, smoke, gravel, dried herbs, menthol and licorice add to an impression of gravitas. Huge tannins envelop the muscular finish.