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2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

A wine of total mystery and intrigue, the 2012 Volnay Clos des Ducs is constantly changing in the glass. Layers of black cherries, plums, spices, menthol, licorice and graphite blossom in an intense, rich wine endowed with tremendous depth and personality, all supported by insistent beams of underlying acidity and minerality. In 2012, the Clos…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has a delineated and tightly coiled nose with crushed stone-infused green apple, rather fresh considering the growing season, with hints of grass clipping. The palate is cohesive on the entry with a bitter lemon note that lends this Puligny tension; it’s fresh and saline with a cohesive and persistent…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru veers towards a more malic style, a bit lean for its class with some reduction. The palate is well-balanced with a sapid entry. It shows fine depth, though it doesn’t possess the mineral core of the previous wine. Nevertheless, it does build nicely, so there is ample weight and concentration…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru displays too much reduction on the nose, missing the éclat of Chartron’s Leflaive although it does improve with aeration and attains satisfying delineation. The palate is bitter on the entry with sour lemon and a twist of orange rind, just a bit of dryness that creeps in towards…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru has a slight mustiness on the nose at first, clarifying to a degree with aeration. Light peppermint scents emerge and perhaps slightly detract from its terroir. There’s more yellow fruit here. The palate is well-balanced with a tangy opening, fresh and vibrant. This is a livewire Les Pucelles…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru conveys the imprimatur of the growing season more than Leflaive’s other cuvées, the ripest and perhaps more exotic with candied orange peel, quince and light peppermint scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity, ripe and quite bold in style, though it clams up towards its slightly reductive…