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Mother & Child: La Lagune 1962 – 2015 (Apr 2018)

The 1995 La Lagune has a very light and simple bouquet that falls below what you would expect given the vintage. This just feels rather one-dimensional. The palate is very simple with light tannin and light red fruit, but clearly lacking much in the way of personality and it feels thin on the finish. Caroline…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Saturated red-ruby color. Redcurrant, tobacco, smoked nuts and oak spice on the nose; less lively than the ’96. Sweet entry, then firm and rather withdrawn. Gives an impression of higher acidity and less ripeness than the ’96, but grew suppler and sweeter with aeration. Still, the tannins here are a bit more obtrusive. Finishes with…

Domaines Great & Small: Burgundy Interim Report (Aug 2025)

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Village is a big step up from the Bourgogne Blanc in this vintage, with crisp green apple, crushed stone and light orange blossom scents. The palate is fresh and taut with a silver bead of acidity. Vibrant, surfeit and energetic, this is a seriously fine Village Cru flirting with Premier Cru complexity.

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Domaine de Chevalier is a thrilling wine. Dense and beautifully layered, the 2016 is also quite a bit richer than it usually is. Cabernet Sauvignon aromatics and structure pulse through the wine. The red-toned fruit is incredibly primary at this stage. Readers should be prepared to cellar the 2016 for at least a…

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Domaine de Chevalier is a classy affair on the nose: nothing ambitious or self-aggrandizing, just beautifully defined black fruit laced with pine needles and wilted irises. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, filigreed tannin, pitch-perfect acidity and a captivating sense of mineralité toward the persistent finish. This is an outstanding Domaine…

Best New Releases from Spain (Sep 1998)

Deep red. Superripe aromas of currant, espresso and iron. Dense, ripe, fruity and youthful. Supple and generous, with good supporting acidity. Really fat with fruit but seems less powerfully structured than the ’86. The firm finish builds and builds.