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2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good full medium red. Aromas of cherry, raspberry and red licorice lifted by a floral topnote. Lush and broad in texture but a bit youthfully inexpressive, showing less early sweetness than most of the 2004s at this address. This is almost tough for the year. Here the tannins are more obvious but ripe. The wine’s…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright medium-deep ruby. Musky aromas of red plum, blackcurrant, cocoa and tobacco leaf. Juicy, sappy and rather stylish on the palate, combining pepper and herb qualities with a subtle touch of sweetness. Not a hugely concentrated wine but amazingly well balanced and silky, and with insidious depth of flavor. Finishes with suave, spreading tannins.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 84% merlot, 8% cabernet franc and 8% cabernet sauvignon; 13.7% alcohol; pH 3.70; a 70% selection) Bright ruby-red. Aromas of strawberry, cocoa and minerals. Then very smooth, rich and sweet in the mouth, with fresh flavors of red berries, black cherry and cedar. Very nicely balanced but this will require time to…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Vieux-Château-Certan has a gorgeous bouquet with red fruit, warm bricks, just a hint of sloes and rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied with tarry red fruit, firm tannin and well judged acidity. It tapers in slightly towards the finish where I would like a little more roundness but there is persistence here. Readers…

The Riches and Richness of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Dec 2019)

Lurid ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes raspberry liqueur, cherry compote, exotic spices and candied lavender. Juicy, seamless and alluringly sweet, offering impressively concentrated and sharply delineated flavors of sappy red fruits, succulent herbs, spicecake and candied flowers that spread out steadily on the back half. Densely packed but also lithe in character, finishing…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Aug 2020)

The 2012 Grande Année is vibrant and wonderfully nuanced. Citrus peel, orchard fruit, brioche, dried flowers and chamomile are all finely knit in a Grand Année built on energy and persistence more than size. Readers will find a restrained Grand Année in 2012. There is plenty of the textural richness that is such a signature…