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2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Medium yellow. Ripe stone fruit and honey on the nose. Fat and sweet but not quite as large-scaled as the Combettes, showing stone fruit and spice flavors. Best today on the insidiously long finish, which really saturates the palate with flavor. Plenty of verve here; still, I’d serve most of these 2009s a bit cooler…

The 2009 White Burgundies (Aug 2011)

The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Pucelles emerges from the glass with crystalline purity in its finely chiseled fruit. It possesses striking mid-palate energy and focus, with sweet floral notes that add lift on the finish. This is a marvelously symmetrical, well-balanced wine loaded with sheer class and personality. Best of all, the Pucelles offers tremendous potential for…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Mouton-Rothschild, matured in 100% new oak for 18 months, has a “serious” Cabernet-driven bouquet, just as it had out of barrel. Graphite-infused black fruit mixes with tobacco and touches of incense, the latter a feature that I did not notice previously. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. Silky smooth in texture, it…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is gorgeous, just as it was en primeur. A wine of stature and vertical build, the 2021 is wonderfully poised from the outset. Beams of tannin add to an impression of explosive lift. Touches of mocha, spice, new leather, cedar and blood orange begin to emerge with a bit of time…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild marks a return to the classic style of this First Growth after three hot vintages. Unsurprisingly, the Cabernet Sauvignon takes control and expresses cigar smoke and graphite aromas. This is very well defined, yet examining the wine over several minutes, I was searching in vain for that “magic touch” exuded in…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is a potent, tightly wound Pauillac that will need a number of years to come together. Driving in its intensity, with searing tannins, the 2021 comes across as a bit severe today, with less of the charm and sensuality that is such a Mouton signature. That said, I was not thrilled…