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2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Léoville-las-Cases is wonderfully deep and layered in the glass. Violets, cloves, menthol and licorice add dimensions of complexity to the dark fruit. Hints of cassis, white flowers and sweet herbs develop later as the wine continues to flesh out. So many 2013s offer up their charms quite easily. Léoville-las-Cases is a rare wine…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Léoville Las-Cases has the finest nose of the three Léoville: the best delineation and focus with more complexity and slightly more fruit, though it is still very “classic” in style. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, decent weight, not complex yet harmonious with just a touch of herbaceous that one can easily…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Léoville Las-Cases has the finest nose of the three Léoville: the best delineation and focus with more complexity and slightly more fruit, though it is still very “classic” in style. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, decent weight, not complex yet harmonious with just a touch of herbaceous that one can easily…

Vinous Table: Brat, London, UK (Aug 2018)

The 2016 Saint-Aubin Cuvée Marguerite from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is a multi-vineyard blend after frost devastated his vines. This is delicious, quite aromatic on the nose with hints of wild honey, almost like a 2015, touches of peaches and cream after 20 minutes aeration. The palate is harmonious and generous with a fine bead of acidity,…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Noyers Bret has a well-defined bouquet with apple blossom, grass clippings and granite aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh, good concentration with a slightly petrolly finish. This is one of the best cuvées from Pillot.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Village has a fresh bouquet, perhaps just lacking a little terroir expression, possibly because around 50% here was lost to frost. The palate is better with a sappy entry, a decent spine of acidity and lightly spiced towards the finish. I suspect the aromatics will open by the time of bottling.