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2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Certan de May is reticent and severe, both on its own and certainly in comparison with most Pomerols in this vintage. Tobacco, cedar, licorice and sweet red cherry struggle to emerge. My impression is that there is a lot of potential, but that potential is not always realized. I expected more here.

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Certan de May is a curious Pomerol. As I mentioned in my note from barrel, it has an open-knit nose of red berry fruit, touches of black tea, white pepper and damp earth. The palate is cohesive on the entry with light tannins, and a little more angular than its peers (especially juxtaposed…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru sports a small reduction on the nose, though there is definitely plenty of fruit underneath, touches of grilled walnut and smoke. Subtle, yet convincing. The palate is well-balanced with fine-boned structure, focused and saline, almost Puligny-like towards the finish. This is a classy offering that it does require some…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

Picked in late August, the 2017 Pavillon Blanc offers an enticing mélange of bright Sauvignon Blanc notes and textural depth, all with the energy that is such a signature of the Blanc. Citrus, orchard fruit, white flowers and crushed rocks are all laced together, but it is the wine's superb balance that stands out most.

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Pavillon Blanc was picked 27 to 31 August. It has a well defined bouquet, but for me less expressive than the previous vintage at the moment with white flowers, Nashi pear and a faint touch of orange rind. The palate is well balanced with a fresh entry that delivers pineapple, white peach and…

Alsace: The 2016s & Late-Released 2015s (Apr 2018)

Luminous straw. Penetrating nuances of lime and guava join the lemon verbena, jasmine, mineral and white stone fruit aromas on the knockout, captivating nose. Then dense, complex and multilayered, offering profound flavors of fresh citrus fruit, sweet spices and talcum powder. Closes extremely long, clean and precise; this is a young white wine of utterly…