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Joel Payne on Germany 2007 (Jan 2009)

(for 375 ml.) Golden yellow. Pear preserves, honey and a subtle note of smoky botrytis on the nose. Very bright dried apricot fruit and insistent slate set the tone for this rich and creamy wine. Finishes astonishingly long, with sweet herbal spices. With perhaps more brawn than elegance, this beerenauslese is not necessarily better than…

Priceless: Roumier Bonnes-Mares 1945 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 1994 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a tricky vintage. One bottle tasted back in 2009 was rather green and another that popped up in a private dinner performed similarly. Vestiges of red fruit on the nose but rather mean, the palate is pleasant enough but missing a real core of fruit and tapering sharply towards…

Vinous Table: SO|LA, London, UK (Jun 2021)

Staying in Burgundy, the 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières En La Richard 1er Cru from Domaine Etienne Sauzet came across a little – dare I say – Californian on the nose, the oak more prominent than I recall from barrel, traces of orange blossom emerging with time. The palate is smooth with good acidity, and quite…

2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Power and Balance (Mar 2017)

Brilliant ruby-red. A fragrant nose evokes ripe red and dark berries, musky flowers, licorice and white pepper, and a smoky mineral overtone adds vivacity. Juicy and concentrated in the mouth, offering gently sweet cherry, cassis and floral pastille flavors that spread out steadily on the back half. Closes chewy, sweet and very long, with building…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright ruby-red. Aromas of blackberry, cassis, licorice and mint are lifted by a floral note. Supple, dry and vinous, showing a classic Saint-Estephe coolness and finesse. Not at all sweet but offers good penetration to its suave dark fruit flavors. The building tannins coat the front teeth. Nicely done.

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Les Ormes de Pez feels a little smudged and lacked the precision of its peers on the nose: leather and sage, plenty of cedar and sandalwood with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, a fine level of acidity but just missing the requisite panache and nuance on the finish. Tasted at…