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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 1998)

Very reticent, somewhat claret-like nose hints at blueberry, plum syrup and dried flowers. The fattest and fullest of these ’95, but also the most backward. Has a powerful tannic structure but finishes with strong, sweet dark berry, mocha and oak flavors. This really blossomed with aeration and should do well in the cellar. This wine…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon Rosé has finally started to fill out. A bit. Rose petal, pink grapefruit, white pepper, slate, mint and sage gradually appear in the glass. The 2008 remains rather austere, befitting a cold vintage with what has now become a very rare October harvest. Vibrant and yet also clenched, the 2008 still…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The 2019s (Jun 2022)

The 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru is a perplexing wine. Tight and austere, the 2019 is not giving up much today. Then again, it is Richebourg. I like the energy, but the 2019 ultimately feels a bit light. The mid-palate is just not filled out. Next to all the other wines in this range, the Richebourg…

Better Than Water: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2019 in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru was picked on 15 and 16 of September at 21hL/ha. Slightly lighter compared to the Grands Echézeaux, it has a very transparent bouquet, yet introspective, certainly more tertiary in style with a light ferrous note loitering in the wings. This repays patience, opening with incense and a very subtle lavender…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The 2019s (Jun 2022)

The 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru is a very pretty wine. Orchard fruit, tangerine peel, crushed flowers and mint open effortlessly in a creamy, open-knit Montrachet that will drink well with minimal cellaring. My favorite DRC Montrachets are those that have a strong voice. I think about the mineral-drenched drive of vintages like 1996, 2010 or…

2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)

Bright ruby-red. Liqueur-like raspberry, licorice and a medicinal quality on the nose. Then quite backward in the mouth, with very primary dark berry and black cherry flavors hinting at great ripeness. Quite primary today and less animal than usual for a young Beaucastel. Elegant, slow-building finish features fine-grained tannins and excellent grip.