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1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)

Thrown in as a ringer, the 1995 Clos d’Ambonnay is a real treat to taste next to the 1996. In particular, tasting both vintages together shows that that 1995 is the more complete of these two first releases of Krug’s single-vineyard Champagne from Ambonnay. Finely-cut fruit, expressive aromatics and exceptional textural finesse are the signatures….

Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)

Deep yellow with a golden tinge. Intense aromas of very ripe tropical fruit, beeswax, honey and raisin are lifted by a strong mineral edge. Very fresh, rich and sweet on entry, then extremely light on its feet, with refined flavors of ripe citrus, mango, papaya, honey and saffron complicated by tangy botrytis. A very bright…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Yquem has an attractive bouquet with marmalade, caramelized pear, orange pith and light puff pastry notes. It just needs a little more delineation. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, lightly spiced and impressive focus. Like the aromatics, I would have just liked a little more precision on…

Cellar Favorite: 1983 Marchesi Antinori Tignanello

Showing modest bricking on the tuile rim with a light core, the 1983 Tignanello boasts a sublime bouquet: scents of singed leather, bay leaf and pinecones, vestiges of red fruit that unspool with aeration. The palate is beautifully balanced and finely delineated. Whilst not a powerful Tignanello, the 1983 has a rustic charm. Balsamic-tinged red…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Pavillon Rouge has a really lovely, peppermint-tinged bouquet that is very well-defined and full of vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive concentration. It is not a complex wine, and it might feel just a bit forceful on the slightly leathery finish. But it has a sense of swagger about it that I…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(a 60/40 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot) Good ruby-red. Sexy aromas of currant, black cherry, licorice, flowers, toffee, menthol and chocolatey oak. Juicy, pure and fairly tightly wound, with lovely acidity giving a briskness to the flavors. Finishes with good definition and grip, and a slight dry edge.