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Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017 (Oct 2019)

Saturated dark red-ruby. Deep, powerful aromas of kirsch, menthol, licorice and dark chocolate, along with a faint musky nuance. Wonderfully rich and enveloping wine, with its distinctly dark fruit flavors accented by pepper and spices. At once dense and energetic owing to its sappy minerality and surprising back-end acidity, this wine is nonetheless a bit…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the entire bottom of this vineyard was fried by frost, according to régisseur François Duvivier): Bright, dark red-ruby. Medicinal blueberry and licorice aromas are lifted by a minty high note; less showy and more restrained on the nose than the Taillepieds and Caillerets today. Then wonderfully dense, primary and pure on the palate, but more…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has a pixelated bouquet with that mélange of red and black fruit that I noticed before. It’s perfumed with hints of potpourri and lovely sous-bois/mossy scents in the background. The palate is medium-bodied, with a little crunch on the entry. It’s a more structured Champans than I am…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is another to add to the canon of outstanding wines from this monopole. It has retained the bouquet with mineral-laden dark berry fruit, perhaps less tea-leaf scents and more of the forest floor. Very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins, a little more grip…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a focused, uncompromising bouquet with a strong marine influence: touches of oyster shell and a hint of orange blossom. The palate is very well-balanced with a twist of sour lemon. There’s very good depth – it’s sapid and quite bold towards the finish. This is a Bienvenue with driving…

A Burgundy Intermezzo (Jul 2024)

The 2022 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a captivating sea cave and oyster shell-scented nose that is so different from the Puligny Premier Crus. The palate is slightly reductive but in a positive way, imparting a light bitterness and tension. There’s tremendous weight on the finish, but it retains linearity and focus. This is another of…