Archives: Product Reviews

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2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Bright ruby-red. Reticent nose offers currant, licorice and spicy new oak. Sweet, supple, broad and lush but not yet complex. Initially seemed less minerally and delineated than the 2007, but aeration brought lovely cut and energy (in fact, the pH here is a bit lower than that of the 2007). The flavors of bitter cherry,…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2006 Clos de Tart was one of the better wines from Sylvain Pitiot’s era. It has evolved a little since my last tasting in 2018. The broody black fruit on the nose still oddly harks toward Bordeaux. It’s not as tight-fisted as before. The palate is structured with a lot of substance; what it…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

(20% vendange entier; 10% new oak): Good bright red. Ripe raspberry and graphite aromas are perked up by a whiff of blood orange. Supple, sappy and intense, with an exotic suggestion of spun sugar leavened by a slightly herbal quality that carries through to the saline, firm finish. Very fresh wine, particularly in light of…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Tertre-Rôteboeuf is once again one of the wines of the year. Deep, unctuous and concentrated, the 2017 is wonderfully rich from start to finish. Inky dark cherry, chocolate, licorice and cloves all open up in the glass. The 2017 is going to need a few years to soften, as the tannins are pretty…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Tertre-Rôteboeuf has Saint-Émilion blood pumping through its veins, although this 2017 has tones of Left Bank, subtle cigar box and smoke aromas infusing the tightly knit red fruit, a faint marine influence in the background. The palate is silky smooth on the entry with a fine line of acidity, quite savory in character…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Pale yellow-straw. Aromas of lemon, lime, nutmeg and clove. Rich but dry and tight, showing little easy sweetness to its slightly aggressive flavors of stone fruits, spices and crushed-stone minerality. Shows a penetrating quality but this baby is still youthfully disjointed, even a touch sour on the end. Very difficult to assess with confidence today…