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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Hameau de Blagny 1er Cru has a very terroir-driven, petrichor/wet limestone bouquet that soars from the glass. So much energy coiled up in this Premier Cru. The palate is taut and fresh despite just a very slight reduction. Good weight, a little waxy in texture towards the finish, this is another promising…

Cellar Favorite: 1986 Mouton-Rothschild

As it nears 40 years in age, the 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is acquiescing to time, those huge tannins polymerising as primary fruit evolves into secondary. The nose is a cornucopia of scents—blackberry, cedar, mint and freshly picked violet—all delivered with equal precocity and control. This is the first time that this Mouton-Rothschild has conveyed a more…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Lynch Bages can be an astounding Pauillac and although this was impressive, it was just a step off the best I have tried. Graphite-infused black fruit, very harmonious and powerful, with an incongruous background scent of Wellington boot. The palate is supremely well balanced, slightly grainy in texture, with quite firm tannins and…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

Strangely, this is my first note on the 1990 Yquem, a vintage tasted many times. Now 35 years old, it has an enticing bouquet of wild honey, barley sugar, crème brûlée and figs that billows with aeration, certainly more opulent than the ’89 but quite irresistible. The palate is vibrant and poised, weighty with plenty…

Cristal – The 1980s…A Decade of Change (Dec 2018)

Hints of caramel, orange peel, apricot jam and spice run through the 1989 Cristal. Ample, creamy and generous, the 1989 is in great shape today. The slightly forward aromas and flavors suggest the 1989 has arrived at a plateau of maturity. I would prefer to drink it over the next decade or so, although the…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2000 Haut-Brion has the upper hand over La Mission at the moment, and I don’t see that changing. It’s always been one of my favourite wines of the vintage. Blackberry and black olive, copious incense and terracotta notes almost hypnotize the senses. The palate is supremely well-balanced with finely sculpted tannins that frame the…