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2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is a potent, tightly wound Pauillac that will need a number of years to come together. Driving in its intensity, with searing tannins, the 2021 comes across as a bit severe today, with less of the charm and sensuality that is such a Mouton signature. That said, I was not thrilled…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild marks a return to the classic style of this First Growth after three hot vintages. Unsurprisingly, the Cabernet Sauvignon takes control and expresses cigar smoke and graphite aromas. This is very well defined, yet examining the wine over several minutes, I was searching in vain for that “magic touch” exuded in…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Mouton-Rothschild, matured in 100% new oak for 18 months, has a “serious” Cabernet-driven bouquet, just as it had out of barrel. Graphite-infused black fruit mixes with tobacco and touches of incense, the latter a feature that I did not notice previously. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. Silky smooth in texture, it…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2002 Salon is in an ideal spot for drinking now. What a wine. The 2002 captures all the natural radiance of this benchmark vintage in its rich, sumptuous personality. All the elements are so well balanced. Apricot, yellow flowers, tropical fruit, menthol and spice are all amplified. It’s a total stunner. Dosage is under…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2002 Salon is in an ideal spot for drinking now. What a wine. The 2002 captures all the natural radiance of this benchmark vintage in its rich, sumptuous personality. All the elements are so well balanced. Apricot, yellow flowers, tropical fruit, menthol and spice are all amplified. It’s a total stunner. Dosage is under…

Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2018 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru has more delineation than the Beauregard, very floral in style with Japanese yuzu and a very light reduction. The palate has a ripe and honeyed opening. Good density, rich like the Beauregard, but I am seeking more delineation on the finish here.