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2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Spicy aromas of soft citrus fruits and hazelnut. Fat, supple, sweet and rich, but a bit less pure than the Tillets. There’s a slight bitter edge to the orange oil flavor. From another barrel: Purer on the nose and palate, with a more obvious hazelnut character. But still not as precise as Roulot’s best ’06s….

2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Pale lemon-yellow. Complex, lively aromas of citrus fruit, hazelnut and stone; very Meursault. At once supple and penetrating, with rich flavors of ripe peach and pineapple complicated by nut oil and a leesy note. An edge of lemony acidity gives grip to the finish. Following the Clos de Mon Plaisir and Luchets, this conveys a…

The 2009 White Burgundies (Aug 2011)

The 2009 Meursault Tillets is subtle, understated and classy. Aromatics, fruit and structure are all woven together beautifully in this soft, seamless wine. The Tillets is silk and elegance personified. I especially like the way the aromatics explode on the finish. This is another dazzling showing.

2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2016 Barolo Monprivato is rich, sensual and layered in the glass, with a bit more mid-palate depth and creaminess than past vintages have shown. Bright red berry fruit, blood orange, mint, spice and rose petal are some of the notes that grace this pliant, open-knit Barolo.

Bartolo Mascarello 1955 to…from Magnum (Jul 2023)

The 2016 Barolo (magnum) is obviously a very, very young wine and yet its inclusion in this flight is essential, both for getting a glimpse of the wine at this early stage and also for understanding its place among recent vintages. Supremely elegant and classically austere in bearing, the 2016 is sublime. The vibrancy of…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Yquem has an attractive bouquet with marmalade, caramelized pear, orange pith and light puff pastry notes. It just needs a little more delineation. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, lightly spiced and impressive focus. Like the aromatics, I would have just liked a little more precision on…