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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Dark ruby-red. Intense aromas of red cherry, cassis, aromatic herbs and cedar. Rich, dense and suave, with concentrated flavors of dark berries, cedar and quinine complicated by smoky and peppery nuances. Finishes very long and smooth, with a highly tactile quality to the cedar and cassis flavors. This Gruaud stands out for its purity, as…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2009 Gruaud Larose is far superior to the previous vintage; interestingly, the first vintage is based on only Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. There’s much more fruit concentration here, with blackberry and raspberry laced with iodine and incense. It is cohesive, though not as complex as the bottle four years ago. The palate is medium-bodied…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot; 13.35% alcohol; pH 3.85; 76 IPT; 40% selection) Deep ruby. A very classic nose of cassis, cedar and smoky graphite is devoid of animal and earthy scents and conveys a sense of refinement rare for this wine. Then very smooth in the mouth, with excellent palate…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Smith Haut-Lafitte Blanc has a lively, crisp bouquet with mineral-driven citrus fruit, fine chalk and flint-like scents, dare I say almost Chablis-cum-Bordeaux! The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, quite vibrant with good depth although the second half is missing the tension that I hope for, certainly what those splendid aromatics deserve….

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is nearly seamless, with striking textural depth and terrific overall balance. The typical Sauvignon aromatics are a bit buried by the intensity of the fruit. In 2014, the Blanc is a wine of richness and texture. Lemon confit, white flowers, chamomile and orchard fruit meld into the creamy, sensual…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru is tasked with following the stunning Chevalier-Montrachet and, to be frank, it never achieves the same degree of intensity on the nose, coming across rather conservative by comparison. The palate is well balanced with a tang of marmalade enlivening the opening. Very good weight and persistence, as you would demand…