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Cellar Favorite: 1986 Mouton-Rothschild

As it nears 40 years in age, the 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is acquiescing to time, those huge tannins polymerising as primary fruit evolves into secondary. The nose is a cornucopia of scents—blackberry, cedar, mint and freshly picked violet—all delivered with equal precocity and control. This is the first time that this Mouton-Rothschild has conveyed a more…

Vinous Table: Lurra (Feb 2025)

The 1994 Angélus is everything you could want from a mature Saint-Émilion without pretentiousness. Gorgeous scents of red fruit, loam, chestnut and smoke blossom on the nose, hinting at possibly 1995 rather than 1994. Merlot is in the driving seat. The palate has wonderful balance and a keen line of acidity, fully mature yet certainly…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright red-ruby. Expressive aromas of raspberry, cocoa, minerals and violet; very cabernet franc! Juicy, sappy and intense, with sharply delineated if still youthfully imploded flavors of floral red berries and minerals. Offers truly superb intensity and clarity, with harmonious lively acids giving the sweetly spicy red fruit flavors noteworthy penetration and cut. Highly perfumed…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2011 Vieux Château Certan, which the Thienponts compare to 1983 and 1988, has a much lighter, simpler bouquet compared to the previous vintage. Maybe a bit conservative with tobacco-tinged black fruit, though it opens nicely with shavings of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, firm tannins that frame the black fruit laced…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Petrus fooled me when served blind. Its opulence tricked me into thinking it was the Le Pin tasted alongside. This might be partly because this came from magnum. It has a gorgeous nose, more expressive than the bottle at the Petrus vertical, with veins of blue fruit and iodine, thyme and sous-bois. Quite…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2015 Petit Village has previously been one of my favourite vintages of this Pomerol estate, and it has been a little inconsistent of late. It has mellowed nicely on the nose with raspberry, black truffle and light pencil box aromas. The 2015 has gained complexity since I last tasted it. The palate is medium-bodied…