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2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Glass-staining ruby. Highly pungent bouquet offers black fruit compote, olive and floral qualities, along with a slightly high-toned quality that recedes with air. The palate-coating, deeply concentrated cassis and blackberry flavors display a slow-mounting spiciness. Pretty powerful for a wine from this estate, showing more heft and dark fruit character than usual. The finish is…

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Bright ruby. Highly expressive aromas of raspberry, cherry, lavender, smoked meat and minerals. Racy and sharply focused, with juicy red and dark berry flavors, silky texture and a gentle candied floral quality. Impressively pure and balanced, with outstanding finishing clarity and lingering sweetness. Does this ever really finish? By no means a blockbuster, but delivers…

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Vivid red. Impressively complex bouquet of raspberry, dried cherry, garrigue and flowers. Exotic apricot and floral honey notes come up with air and carry onto the palate, which shows sweet red fruit flavors, a smoky quality and a velvety texture. This very elegant wine is already putting on a seductive show. Finishes smooth, juicy and…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright, deep red-ruby. Sexy aromas of raspberry preserves, cola, incense and violet. Palate-staining red and dark fruit flavors show very good depth, with tangy acidity providing lift. Silky tannins add shape and grip to the very pure, long finish, which offers lingering notes of cream soda and violet. Though bigger and deeper than the Langoa…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Léoville-Barton has an endearing nose with well-defined red berry fruit, cedar, pencil box and light sous-bois aromas that unfold with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine depth and precision, well-integrated oak and a tensile, quite saline finish that is elegant and persistent. This is a beautiful 2017 that should age…

Vinous Table: La Taverne Alsacienne, Ingersheim, France (Feb 2019)

For once, the best wine of the evening during a dinner in Alsace was not an Alsatian white. It’s hard to argue with the simply magnificent 2006 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge, a masterpiece of refinement and precision. Not at all a blockbuster, but rather a paragon of balance and gracefulness, it offers…