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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Very pale color. Wonderfully complex, musky aromas of minerals, ginger, lemon, earth, mushroom, smoke and brioche; with aeration, this showed sweaty saline and chicken broth notes that reminded me of Le Montrachet, as well as a captivating topnote of fresh rose petal. Fat, ripe and mouthfilling without being at all heavy. Loaded with flavor and…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Lafite-Rothschild casts an imposing presence. Black fruit, sage, menthol, licorice and incense give Lafite its dark, almost somber, personality. Cabernet Sauvignon is dialed up, and that very much comes through in the wine’s flavor profile and overall feel. The tannins are quite prominent at this stage. In some ways, the 2021 reminds me…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Lafite-Rothschild, which was aged in 90% new oak, has a deep, almost opaque hue. This has quite an arresting bouquet with dense blackberry, sous-bois and pencil box scents, quintessential Lafite aromas with nuanced floral scents surfacing with time. The palate is medium-bodied, though with more weight than you would expect given the growing…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Lafite-Rothschild is every bit as exceptional as it was from barrel. The high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon comes through loud and clear. All the elements are so well balanced. The 2021 is dark, racy and full of Lafite sensuality, all kicked up by the natural intensity of the year. Dark red/purplish fruit, mint,…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Lafite-Rothschild is driven by the Cabernet Sauvignon, as you would expect with 96% in the blend. Blackberry, cigar box and touches of gravel are entwined with the fruit— linear and quintessentially Lafite. The palate is medium-bodied with chiseled tannins. It’s a growing season that suits the style of Lafite-Rothschild, classically built and not…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good full medium red. Aromas of cherry, raspberry and red licorice lifted by a floral topnote. Lush and broad in texture but a bit youthfully inexpressive, showing less early sweetness than most of the 2004s at this address. This is almost tough for the year. Here the tannins are more obvious but ripe. The wine’s…