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2011 Vintage Ports (May 2014)

Deep, saturated dark ruby. Penetrating aromas of black cherry, violet, lavender, licorice, dark tobacco and minerals. Then plush and elegant in the mouth, with outstanding depth and a hint of youthful bitterness to the superconcentrated flavors of black raspberry and spices. The wine’s perfectly integrated acidity and floral lift give the finish great hang time….

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

Christian Seely advised that magnums of the 1988 Pichon Baron are now far superior to bottles. Only one way to find out. Two magnums tasted and both completely vindicate Seely’s view. The bouquet is the personification of a mature Pauillac on the nose with graphite and cedar-infused black fruit. There’s a hint of cassis in…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright full ruby. Slightly stern aromas of cassis, graphite, licorice, incense and flowers. Then dense and penetrating, with terrific energy to the subtle dark fruit, licorice and mineral flavors. There’s a coolness to the fruit that makes this wine dramatically different from the Forts de Latour. Finishes with big, building tannins and a powerful sense…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2006 Latour shows some reduction on the nose, although it soon blows away to reveal pencil-shaving infused black fruit, wild hedgerow and light cassis aromas. The palate offers up a mixture of red and black fruit. This has a firm grip with an uncompromising backbone. Dense yet refined, it is refreshingly saline toward the…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Léoville Barton does not have the same vigour as the Poyferré ’90 and is hampered by a bit of brett. Tertiary in style, it offers scents of wild mint and light violet, though it needs more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, very malleable in texture, harmonious with an old-school, slightly…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Healthy pale yellow. Restrained aromas of fresh peach and flowers. A step up in energy and cut from the village Chassagne, showing more focus and penetration–not to mention floral lift–to its stone fruit flavors. Strong acidity here will require time to be absorbed. Winemaker Benoît Riffault opined that the Sauzet 2013s generally have more incisive…