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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 L’Évangile is a Pomerol that I have rated highly in the past, however this bottle performed poorly. It feels slightly oxidised on the nose and is lacking the freshness of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins and well judged acidity. It feels quite ferrous and slightly dry towards the finish,…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good medium ruby. Enticing aromas of dark plum, blackcurrant, coffee liqueur and cinnamon are lifted by an intense note of violet. Sweet, lush and round, combining a fine-grained texture and terrific focus thanks to vibrant but harmonious acidity. Finishes very long and pure, with ripe but still youthfully chewy tannins. This very attractive 2010 ought…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(89% merlot and 11% cabernet franc; 3.75 pH; 14.7% alcohol) Opaque purple-ruby. Deep, rich aromas of black plum, violet, licorice and chocolate. Extremely broad and impressively large-scaled, with almost shocking sweetness to the jammy red and black fruit flavors. This huge, extract-rich Pomerol comes across as dense and luscious, but may prove almost too much…

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is a blend of Calera and Wente clones, which, along with the decision to pick early, yields a Chardonnay with distinctly salty, saline notes that give the wine energy, tension and persistence. Orchard fruit, white flowers, mint and white pepper add striking aromatic top notes. The 2017 is quiet understated,…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Village, which contains around 15% whole bunch, had only finished its malo a month prior to my visit. It has a dense, intense, blackcurrant and cassis-scented bouquet that will need time to mellow. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and fleshy but the black cherry fruit is framed by fine tannins and the…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2012 La Grande Dame is a dense, powerful Champagne. Now with a few years post-disgorgement, the 2012 is starting to show the first signs of aromatic development. Dried pear, chamomile, spice, light honey and marzipan are beautifully amplified throughout. The blend is 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay, with the weight of Pinots from…