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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good deep medium ruby. Wonderfully perfumed, fresh aromas of blackberry, raspberry, licorice, spices and violet pastille. Brilliantly pure and energetic, with outstanding flavor intensity and inner-mouth perfume. Still an infant today, with primary black fruits dominating. But this has the spicy, floral perfume of the greatest vintages of this wine. The ripely tannic, palate-saturating finish…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Tertre-Rôteboeuf is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. You would be hard pressed to discern whether you are in the presence of a great Burgundy or a great Bordeaux on the nose as it delivers exquisitely pure brambly red fruit laced with minerals. The palate is actually structured and…

Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)

The 2006 L’Eglise-Clinet was picked 15 to 21 September and matured in 80% new oak. It has quite a deep color and a little more turbidity than other vintages. It offers brambly red fruit on the nose, secondary aromas of black tea and truffle, not as powerful as the 2009 but with fine precision. The…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright ruby-red. Knockout nose combines dark berries and black cherry, licorice pastille, truffle, tobacco and sexy oak spices. Lush and sweet but with superb freshness and underlying structure. The wine’s combination of suavity, backbone and compelling mineral-driven perfume is why I often find it hard to take merlot seriously when it’s not grown on the…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Château Margaux has an absolutely sublime bouquet with gravel-tinged black fruit, pressed violet and black truffle, much more opulent than its peers or indeed other vintages yet suffused with grace. The palate is beautifully balanced with plenty of freshness and succulence, pure black fruit, a keen line of acidity and a very harmonious…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Reticent but pure aromas of white peach and hazelnut enlivened by a lemony high note. Fine-grained, silky, concentrated grand cru with excellent lemony acidity giving shape to the mid-palate and extending the long, perfumed, classically dry finish. Terrific potential here.