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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2017 Ducru-Beaucaillou appears to have gained a little opulence since I last tasted it, just after bottling. Here it is armed with precocious blackberries, bilberry, violet petals and potpourri. Wonderful definition. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte, saturated tannins, superb intensity yet a Ducru-Beaucaillou with linearity and strictness. It is elevated by a saline…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc is one of my favorite vintages in recent years. On the nose, Golden Delicious intermixes with lime and Granny Smiths, which has real drive. The palate is very well balanced with great poise and tension, but it's the texture that really delivers, with hints of chamomile lingering toward the…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc is every bit as captivating from bottle as it was from barrel. Time seems to have given the 2015 more depth and freshness, which is obviously a very good thing. A host of lemon peel, crushed rock, green pear, mint and dried apricot notes develop in the glass, but…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Haut-Brion is moving into its drinking plateau on the nose, which is now entirely open. Tertiary red fruit mixes with fennel, iron filings and a touch of Moroccan spice. Very fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. It’s a little sweeter and, as I commented before, a little medicinal in style,…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Haut-Brion is forward and intense on the nose. Blackberry mixes with cranberry fruit, incense and black olive compote, slightly ferrous and becoming spicier with aeration. It coheres very nicely in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, expressive and fleshy, and somewhat savory with cooked meats and brown spices on the…

The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

Apricot, peach, flowers and spices grace the 2011 Meursault Rougeots, another wine that stands out for its breadth and amplitude. A nuanced, caressing wine, the 2011 should drink well early, but it also has the stuffing to age. A recent bottle of the 2000 was firing on all cylinders. There is a lot to like…