Archives: Product Reviews

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2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Deep red. Superripe, exotic aromas of kirsch, plum and garrigue; potent-verging-on-overwhelming. Extremely ripe, with dense flavors of sweet cherry and candied rose that build and expand through the finish, which features dusty, fine-grained tannins. The floral notes linger nicely on the back.

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Fairly pale yellow. Vibrant aromas of pineapple, grapefruit, licorice, and fresh herbs, plus a petrolly riesling-like pungency. Moderately thick, racy and stylish, with flavors similar to the aromas. Very youthful and given clarity by sound acidity. The petrol note carries through to the long, bright aftertaste. Very ’88, and very Barsac.

Come On Aline: Château Coutet 1943-2017 (Feb 2024)

The 1988 Coutet has a much better nose than the 1983 or 1985 with tangerine, yellow plum and light adhesive scents. This has a spring in its step. The palate is fresh on the entry with good weight, a fine bead of acidity, and marmalade mingling with tangerine and ginger, fanning out nicely toward the…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2009 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from an era when it’s a bit like Russian Roulette trying to avoid premox’d bottles. Fortunately, this bottle is fine. It has an exquisite, haunting bouquet with hints of white truffle and yellow fruit bursting in slow motion. Lemon balm hints appear throughout. The palate is well-balanced with superb…

Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Full, bright yellow; swirls thicker than the ’11. Creamy-sweet pineappley nose suggests a rather low-acid wine. Delivers almost confectionery sweetness on entry, then large-scaled and opulent in the middle, with yellow fruit flavors verging on exotic. Today this wine is dominated by its ripe-vintage character and its plush wave of fruit, but the very long,…

The 2009 White Burgundies (Aug 2011)

The 2009 Chevalier-Montrachet seems to combine elements of the Bienvenues and Bâtard. An open, floral bouquet melds into in sweet fruit, white flowers and the essence of crushed rocks. The Chevalier possesses striking inner perfume and fabulous balance as it wraps around the palate in stunning style. Leflaive’s parcels are located on the higher parts…