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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Cos d’Estournel is a magical wine. The aromatics alone as mesmerizing. Mocha, dried flowers, herbs and a whole range of deeply-pitched spice notes soar out of the glass. Explosive, deep and so full of character, the Cos dazzles from start to finish. Time in the glass brings out hints of rose petal, cedar…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Meursault Sous Le Dos d’Ane offers traces of orchard fruit, hints of linseed and hazelnut, nicely focused and gains intensity in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a slightly tangy entry, hints of orange rind and fresh pear and moderate depth with a tensile and slightly pithy finish.

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Corton-Grancey Grand Cru is deeper in colour than its peers with blackberry and raspberry fruit, hints of mulch-like undergrowth and wilted violets. This is quite complex, even if it misses a little joie-de-vivre. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, a fine bead of acidity, quite precise and classy towards the finish…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(50% vendange entier; from estate parcels planted in 1990 and 1947, plus some purchased fruit from vines planted in 1965): Bright, deep red with ruby highlights; beautiful color. Deep aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, violet, smoked meat, animal fur and earth. Plush, smooth and concentrated; packed with chewy purple fruit and violet flavors. This fleshy, deep…

The Future’s Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Nov 2019)

The 2018 Carruades de Lafite was picked from September 17 until October 5. I prefer the bouquet to that of the 2017; it offers more fruit, more purity and perfume, and an almost floral style, touches of pressed violets infusing the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and well-matched acidity. There is…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Carruades de Lafite is delicate, sensual and elegant, with a striking interplay of finesse and power. A wine of total allure and translucence, the 2018 Carruades is so silky, so finessed, so classy. Sweet red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal and spice are all finely knit in a Pauillac of tremendous class. Harvest started…