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Chablis 2012: Energy, Power and Class (Aug 2013)

The 2011 Chablis La Forest is seriously beautiful. White peaches, pears, flowers, crushed rocks, mint and slate meld together in a hugely inviting, textured Chablis that will drink beautifully right out of the gate. At the same time, the 2011 is seriously inward for the year and clearly still has a lot more to say….

2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)

Bright pale yellow. Penetrating mineral aromas of crushed stone and oyster shell, with a hint of ripe grapefruit in the background. Wonderfully juicy and vibrant if youthfully taut, offering uncanny intensity and tactility for the vintage. Finishes saline and extremely long, with notes of lime, oatmeal and powdered stone. This palate-staining wine left my salivary…

Rheinhessen Riesling 2016: The Triumph of Subtlety (May 2018)

Zesty lemon and tangerine are tinged with chalk dust on the nose. To the accompaniment of white peach, the citrus fruits turn surprisingly juicy and generous on the palate, which is notable also for its almost caressing silkiness. This is Morstein with a generosity, almost a youthful charm, that I don’t recall from past installments….

2014 Barbaresco: An October Surprise (Oct 2017)

Like most of the wines in this lineup, the 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota is quite potent. A rush of raspberry jam, wild flowers, white pepper and mint make a strong opening statement. Succulent and yet also structured, the Muncagota has so much to offer. It should be one of the first wines in this range…

2014 Barbaresco: An October Surprise (Oct 2017)

The 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is shockingly seamless in this tasting. Deep layers of fruit virtually bury the tannins, something that is so unusual for a young Rabajà. A host of dark blue-tone fruits, lavender, mint, violet and spice race across the palate in an utterly vivid, compelling Barbaresco of the highest level. Perhaps I…

Exploring the Santa Cruz Mountains (Oct 2019)

The 2009 Monte Bello feels very ripe and lush in its first impression, but the tannins have not softened all that much yet. Game, smoke, licorice and leather gradually open up with a bit of aeration. The 2009 is endowed with tremendous depth of fruit, but the equally imposing tannins need time to soften. All…