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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 L’If, which sees 50% new oak and 50% one-year-old wood, has a disarmingly lovely bouquet that veers more toward red fruit than black, offering raspberry and wild strawberry, hoisin and light marmalade aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and quite saline on the entry, with good tension from beginning to end….

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 L'If is super-impressive, even if it comes across as a bit restrained today. Ultimately, that energy will serve it well. Dark and sensual, with striking aromatic presence and fabulous balance, the 2018 dazzles from start to finish. Dark cherry, plum, spice, new leather, menthol and mocha all build in the glass. The 2018…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 L’If has an almost Left Bank nose with copious graphite scents percolating through the black fruit, very focused and energetic. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, finely tuned, ripe and sensual with ample freshness on the cedar and mineral infused finish. Wonderful. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting.

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 L'If is the sort of wine I would like to spend hours with. There is just too much to it. At times the 2019 is opulent and quite racy, and yet in other moments its the underlying minerality and tension in the wine that are most evident. Black cherry, herb, incense, licorice and…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

Bright red. Deep, complex aromas of strawberry, fresh blackcurrant, aromatic herbs and orange peel, complicated by a bright note of violet. Light and lively in the mouth, with juicy acidity giving the bright red and black fruit flavors an impression of weightlessness. Finishes brisk and clean. This is the lightest wine I recall being made…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Certan de May is lovely. Mid-weight, gracious, finessed and expressive, the 2013 is laced with sweet red and black cherries, smoke, dried flowers, tobacco and spices. Naturally, the structure is that of the year, but all the elements are nicely balanced just the same.