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Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 L'Évangile has a riper nose than the Clos l'Eglise: blackberry, wild strawberry and floral notes of rose petal and iris flower. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well balanced and fleshy, yet there is backbone here. Nicely focused and harmonious toward the finish, this is a lovely Pomerol that should age with…

2004 Barolo: The Cream Rises to The Top (May 2015)

Vietti’s 2004 Barolo Lazzarito has come along nicely over the last few years. Built on a core of dense, powerful Serralunga fruit, the 2004 remains deep and mysterious to the core. Sage, rosemary, lavender and tobacco add aromatic freshness that nicely balances the overt texture shaped by new French oak. The voluptuous, racy finish is…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Good full red. Pure, high-pitched nose offers minerals, brown spices, Cuban tobacco and menthol. Powerful and deep, with strong minerality giving energy and sap to the wine. Perhaps best today on the sweet, lush back end, where the wine’s minerality contributes to a rising, wonderfully long and fresh aftertaste. (Incidentally, an early look at the…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

Recent vintages of the 2005 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru have left me not particularly impressed. In this era, the winemaking duties were undertaken by Benjamin Leroux; this magnum was bought by current winemaker Paul Zanetti. I just find it trying much too hard to make an impression. The aromas are bold and in…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Saturated ruby. Superripe but fresh aromas of black raspberry, licorice and spices, with a hint of more exotic fruits. Sweet but not quite jammy, with very rich and distinctly black fruit flavors complicated by spices and bitter chocolate. A Pommard of compelling depth and verve, with flavors mounting slowly and inexorably to take over the…

Napa Valley Trilogy: 2014, 2015 & 2016 (Dec 2016)

The 2014 Second Flight bristles with all the energy and tension that is such a signature of the vintage. Dark flavors abound, with plenty of black cherry, mocha, espresso and graphite overtones layered throughout. The 2014 is an especially muscular, brooding Second Flight. Accordingly, it is likely to require at least a few years to…