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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Ruby-red, not quite as deep as the ’96. Exotic, sweet aromas of currant, lead pencil, spice and woodsmoke. A huge wine that conveys a sense of sheer power, but not quite as delineated or stylish as the ’96. This really explodes on the aftertaste, but the ’96 is more subtle. Clearly first-growth size, but less…

Northern Rhône: Solid ’14 Reds and Outstanding ’15 Whites (Jul 2017)

Bright purple. Explosive aromas of ripe dark berries, licorice, incense, vanilla and Indian spices, joined by a smoky nuance as the wine opens up. Deeply concentrated yet impressively lively and precise on the palate, offering intense, finely etched black and blue fruit, cherry liqueur and floral pastille flavors complemented by hints of olive paste and…

2017 Barolo, Part 2: The Late Releases (Oct 2021)

The 2017 Barolo Sperss is a powerful, backward wine. In 2017 Sperss is not as huge as in some previous years, but then again, the move towards greater finesse has been in place for some time now. In tasting, Sperss feels more extracted and tannic than Conteisa (even after allowing for the clear differences in…

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Good deep ruby-red. Primary, high-pitched aromas of crushed berries and spices, with a whiff of artificial flowers. Juicy, pure and intense, with lovely cut to the raspberry and spice flavors. Finishes with good length and lift and a lightly herbal character.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Gruaud Larose is a vintage that I have not tasted for some 10 years. It has a somehow sedate bouquet of dark red berry fruit, cola and tobacco scents, ever so slightly smudged with age. The mellow, soy-tinged palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins and fine acidity but maybe just a little sauvage…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby. Liqueur-like aromas of roasted black raspberry, leather and grilled nuts. Lush, sweet and thick, with an almost unctuous texture and terrific volume. A wine of compelling sweetness and chewiness, not to mention sheer mouthfilling size. Finishes with huge, broad, sweet tannins and lingering notes of blackcurrant, coffee and leather. Classic, thoroughly ripe Gruaud-Larose.