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2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Pavie-Macquin was decanted for 60 minutes before pouring. It is surprisingly backward on the nose and demanded another 30 minutes to really open, offering luscious scents of black cherry, boysenberry, crushed violet and light camphor scents that recede with continued aeration. The palate is still concentrated with layers of black fruit tinged with…

Cellar Favorite: 2006 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Sep 2021)

The 2006 Beaucastel shows the textbook character of a mature Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It has expansive raspberry and cherry scents with suggestions of succulent herbs, pungent flowers, cigar box and just a hint of earth. Given the high percentage of Mourvèdre (almost a third of the blend), I would have thought that the earthy aspect would have…

Vinous Table: La Taverne Alsacienne, Ingersheim, France (Feb 2019)

For once, the best wine of the evening during a dinner in Alsace was not an Alsatian white. It’s hard to argue with the simply magnificent 2006 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge, a masterpiece of refinement and precision. Not at all a blockbuster, but rather a paragon of balance and gracefulness, it offers…

Joel Payne on Germany 2005 (Jan 2007)

(auction wine) Golden yellow. Christmas fruitcake with nectarine, white raisin and pure botrytis on the nose. High-toned, creamy and rich, with flavors of apricot nectar, fine slate and brown spices, with an elegant floral element. A sublime touch of botrytis adds complexity to the long, mineral finish.This is one of the finest ausleses of the…

Austria 2008: Rising to the Challenge (Nov 2009)

(344 g/l r.s., 9.4 g/l acidity and 6.5% alcohol) Deep golden yellow. Spectacular nose opens like a peacock’s tail, flamboyantly showing off intense peach, orange, strawberry and blossom honey. Then equally seductive in the mouth, adding sweet huckleberry, strawberry jam, apricot and mandarin orange to its many facets. The wine’s structure and extraordinary finesse is…

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

The 2010 Carbonaione (Sangiovese) is a stunner. Deep, rich and utterly impeccable, the 2010 boasts breathtaking richness, energy and power. The flavors remain incredibly primary in a wine that will require years to develop. Graphite, crushed rocks, blue/black fruit, plums and smoke emerge over time. As phenomenal as the 2010 is today, it really should…